Part Location Diagram of WP3387134 Whirlpool Dryer Cycling Thermostat
See part 42 in the diagram
Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Cycling Thermostat
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Dryer Cycling Thermostat WP3387134

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97 Reviews

Rated by 161 customers 

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.

$ 28.02
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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Dryer Cycling Thermostat Specifications

This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
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Part Videos
Difficulty: Easy | Tools Required: Nutdriver,Screw drivers

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Cycling Thermostat

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Cycling Thermostat

How to Troubleshoot a Dryer That Doesn't Heat Properly

How to Troubleshoot a Dryer That Doesn't Heat Properly

Test If Your Electrical Part is Failing - Multimeter Tool

Test If Your Electrical Part is Failing - Multimeter Tool
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Too hot | Not Heating | Heat stays on after drum has stopped | Won’t Start
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid.
Part# WP3387134 replaces these:
AP6008270, 2011, 3-6910, 306910, 3387134, 3387135, 3387139, WP3387134VP
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 161 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Dryer quit heating.
This dryer is 30 plus years old. I am a 71 year old female that has never taken on this type of repair. First I very carefully ordered all parts possibly associated with this problem. Watched all videos available for this model. Could not find one at Parts Select that addressed this particular dryer. Model number was correct. Finally found YouTube video that addressed an "Old Kenmore Wood Top". It showed the correct way to remove the Heating Element unit. Also Parts Select never mentions that fuses and sensors are not "polarized". Very important info for a novice. But Google helped me with that. Heating Element is "polarized", very important not to cross wires. I did order a couple Heating Element Connection Wire Kits that were not needed for this repair. Got all parts replaced, put dryer back together, crossed my fingers and turned it on, so far it has been working really well. I chose to replace all the parts I did because of the dryers age, plus I am not familiar with multimeters. Didn't want to risk one old part messing up a new part. Thank you Parts Select.
It is not a 2 hr. repair, but I worked slowly, didn't want to make any mistakes. It would be good if everyone is aware of some of the above information and the YouTube video done by an individual on this particular dryer.
Other Parts Used:
Heating Element Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat Thermal Cut-Off Kit Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
  • Jo from BANDON, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would intermittently work on economy drying, never on timed dry. (Heat failed tumbler was always good)
Disconnect power cord. Removed upper and lower panels. Disconnected "push on" spade connectors and removed the single screw holding each device and removed same. Timer had a two multi wire plug and 2 screws. Reversed process and installed same. Was fairly sure only timer was bad. But due to age of dryer and posts found here, decided to just install fuse and cut out. Everything works perfect!
Other Parts Used:
Timer - 60Hz Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • Steve from HICO, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer took at least 3 rounds to dry light clothes and 4-5 for towels.
This was my second time making repairs. The only difference this time I replaced all parts from top to bottom. When I pulled the heating element out only one coil was working the others had burned out. It was easy to do and the videos on the site are very helpful and informative. I followed the steps and if I thought I missed a step I replayed it again. I am a woman and found it very easy and not at all intimidating at all. I am going to hopefully have it for another 10 yrs. You guys keep up the good work.
Other Parts Used:
Timer - 230V 60Hz Push-To-Start Switch Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat Heating Element - 240V 5400W Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Stacey from CHUNCHULA, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Connection to heating element were loose.
I squeeze the cable connection to heating element so the thermal fuse does not cut the electrical current. The loose connection cause the thermal fuse to blow.
Other Parts Used:
Thermal-Limiter Heating Element Dryer Cycling Thermostat Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Nestor from MIAMI, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer would not turn on
replaced the timer, dryer cycling thermostat, push to start switch, and dryer thermal fuse.
Other Parts Used:
Push-to-Start Switch Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • Dale from PAOLA, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Clothes still damp after a dry cycle and a high pitched sound while the drum is tumbling
Installing the cycling thermostat was easy. Where I encountered difficulty was disconnecting the door switch connector so I can remove the front cover. The other area I found difficulty was removing the old tri-rings from the rear drum roller shaft. I ended cutting them up with diagonal pliers.

All in all, it was well worth it. I’m the type that try to fix things instead of throwing it away and buying new ones. It’s more earth friendly.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Cycling Thermostat Lint Filter with Handle Maintenance Kit
  • James from BOLINGBROOK, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Got heat only on start of cycle and no repeat of flame. Suspected coils on gas valve.
I used a multi meter to find coils failed in warmed temperature condition.
I tested main switch for different cycle operation. Main switch was worn out inside and not making good contact for soft cycles.
This dryer is 25 years old. I chose to replace all the sensors, fuses, ignitor, gas valve coils, cycle switch and thermostat.
This was cost effective for me, because now, I actually have a good dryer that might just last another 25 years. I might replace the drive belt soon. I'll order from Parts Select. This was easy and fun. Thanks!
Other Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor Dryer Cycling Thermostat M Series New Style Coil Kit Igniter Kit
  • John T Lundy from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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No heat on any applicable settings
Cleaned entire unit, replaced all thermostat assemblies and exhaust seal
Other Parts Used:
Dryer High Limit Thermostat Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Cycling Thermostat Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Russell from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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No heat.
Removed and replaced the recommended parts purchased from the site.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse High Limit Thermostat Dryer Cycling Thermostat Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Christopher from WILTON, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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The drum would not rotate because power was not being applied to the motor.
Replaced the non-resettable thermal fuse because mine was open circuit (one screw). While I had it apart, I also replaced the thermostat for internal-bias (one screw) because a bad thermostat can make the fuse blow again. During disassembly, I found the lint trapping housing seal was worn. It is just a cheap piece of open cell foam weatherstripping with one sticky side where it attaches to the back of the painted surface of the rear cabinet. To replace that, you just peel up the old seal which was loose and deformed. Stick down a new seal with a little more care than the factory originally did.
Other Parts Used:
Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • SEAN from ANDERSON, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!

245 questions answered by our experts.
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Jerry
July 24, 2017
Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem
For model number Ler7646ez2
PartSelect logo
Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

93 people found this helpful.

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Kealan
July 20, 2017
I’m not sure how often this happens because it hasn’t happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I’ve already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it’s the thermostat?
PartSelect logo
Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

85 people found this helpful.

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Tony
August 3, 2018
Have seen 2 different answers about continuity on thermostat internal bias. One said both should read 0 at room temperature. The other said the small terminals will read an "ohm value". Which is correct?
PartSelect logo
Hi Tony, Thank you for the question. You would need to check the outer 2 terminals on the thermostat for continuity. If this checks ok then test the inner smaller terminals for resistance of 4.5K ohms. Hope this helps!

66 people found this helpful.

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Dylan
July 20, 2017
My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.
PartSelect logo
Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

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Steve
February 8, 2018
Greetings, i recently replaced the thermal fuse, cleared the venting ducts, etc. The dryer started up right away, i thought all was well. However, the next day my daughter informed me that her dryer had stopped working again after drying a tablecloth for approximately 20 minutes. I suspect the thermostat is not cycling properly and is causing the dryer too overheat and blow the thermal fuse. Wondering if i should replace the thermostat and the thermal fuse(again). Thank you very much.
For model number IED4400VQ1
PartSelect logo
Hello Steve, thank you for your question. I would recommend changing the fuse, as well as the Thermostat, Internal-Bias WP3387134. This thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If the thermostat isn't turning off, the unit will overheat and the fuse will blow. I hope this helps!

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Marty
November 28, 2017
My dryer is not heating. Trouble shooting leads me to the internal-bias thermostat. Testing with an ohm meter shows continuity between the large terminals and open between the small terminals. Should the small ones read continuity or some resistance reading?
For model number 110.70702990
PartSelect logo
Hi Marty, Thank you for your question. Both sets of prongs should read 0 ohms at room temperature. If your meter needle does not move or your display does not change, the part is bad and will need to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

30 people found this helpful.

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Leo
July 20, 2017
My dryer is turning on and “working” but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn’t seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?
PartSelect logo
Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

16 people found this helpful.

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Vic
August 25, 2017
How do you test thermostat internal-bias
For model number lgr4634pq0
PartSelect logo
Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

15 people found this helpful.

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Danny
October 7, 2017
None of the components are testing bad. ? The thermal fuse, the high temp sensors, start switch, door switch, all are showing continuity or resistance. The heating element is good. I have only 2 choices left. The timer or the motor. The motor is last as it is hard to get to. The problems began when the timed dry cycle quit heating as it ran. So i used the auto-sense cycle and it worked great. Problem solved for 6 months. Yesterday i put the clothes in and set the timer and pushed start. Nothing! No hum, no buzz, nothing. Not on any cycle. Both parts left are expensive. So, is there a go, no go test for the motor? Would you be inclined to suspect the timer? How can i be sure it is one or the other? Thank you for the help.
For model number EED4400WQ0
PartSelect logo
Hello Danny, thank you for contacting us. It does not sound like an issue with the motor. It sounds like it would be the timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. If it becomes faulty it could cause nothing to happen when you start a cycle or only work on certain cycles. Hope this helps!

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Related Parts:
Paul
November 2, 2017
How many ohms should the thermostat read when tested with a multi-meter?
For model number KEYE760WWH1
PartSelect logo
Hi Paul, Thank you for your question. Your meter should be set at the lowest setting. The thermostat should read 0 ohms. If your meter does not move when you test the part, it will have to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387134
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