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Bulb Replacement
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
I shattered the original one when I took it out to clean it.
I placed the new glass in place, and replaced the screws. What I really want to tell abut is how QUICKLY my replacement part came from your company. I was so upset when I broke the original glass, but the replacement glass arrived within 24 hours! It was wonderful! Thank you!
E-2 F-3 codes..Oven inop w/trying to bake.Beeps @ start attempt.
Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.
Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.
I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.
The plastic trim piece broke and the bottom metal trim was rusted
The kit was not supposed to fit my particular model but I felt the picture was exact and took a chance and had it sent. It was a perfect fit and was easy to assemble and looks like a new stove. I paid one third of the cost estimates that I got from local appliance centers and even other on line sites. I'm very please with the product and the delivery was more than prompt!! I couldn't believe the service!!! Thanks!!
Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !
Oven did not rise to temperature when at the bakie setting
First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.
I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in
