XSS23GSKPCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I was able to snap the new piece right in

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Opened package and just snapped in front insert. Took longer to open package than it took to replace broken insert.

I bought the GE Refrigerator about 4 years ago for about $1500. The defrost Heater failed about one year ago. Then I called local repair guy, he replaced the Defrost Heater and charged me about $250. Now it happened again. I think we should try it to fix it by myself. I found the parts from partselect.com, it costs me $50 with 2-3 days shipping. After it replaced, it works fine again.

Note: Symtom: cannot make cool air, Frozen area with frost on the wall. Regeriator "leaking water" on floor since iced food started to melt...

Solution: open the cover of the wall inside of frozen zone, use hot water to defrost it gradually. removed the failed Defrost Heater and replaced it with new one.

Note: after you defrost the area inside of the wall, your refrigerator will work normally without the Defrost heater without any issue about week while you are waiting for the parts coming.

Very easy repair, 3 screws to remove motor assembly and 3 screws/1 nut to remove motor from housing. Reverse order to replace. VERY EASY repair!

ordered replacement part with the understanding that tubing to the water valve could be easily removed. The tubes were carefully removed with some difficulty, and when the new tubes were inserted one leaked. The tube seat was not snug. Therefore a new water valve was purchased. The installation was successful within about 20 minutes. If I were to do the job again, both the water resevoir and valve would be ordered together.

Removed the lower 2 drawers, lower front grill, rear lower compressor cover. Removed the 2 water lines from the quick connects and screws from the water tank. Pulled lines through the hole in the right rear of the refrigerator and removed tank. Then reversed steps to install new tank. The upper plastic tank cover has 2 buttons on top that are really screws with a plastic cap, these are easily removed with pliers.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

1. Removed light cover.
2. Removed old light assembly board from cable, (1 of 3 lights).
3. Connected cable to light assembly board.
4. Replace light cover.
5. All 3 lights fully lighted.
6. Installation Completed.

after replacing the door seal, I couldn't get the new seal to close and stay closed, so I replaced the closing arm and spring. The door will close now but not tightly and it's loosing cold air. So I made and patented a wooden block to put behind the freezer door handle and the refrigerator door handle to keep the doors closed. Available in black, white and natural tan. (just kidding about the patented part, but not the block)

We just bought a new home and found that one of the clear shelf inserts in a door shelf was pretty much trashed. I was very pleased to be able to find this part at this site . Instead of having to replace the entire shelf I could just put in this part. My only comment is that this clear part is rather difficult to get into the white plastic shelf. I was afraid I was going to break it. But it has to fit snugly. The final result is very nice. Just be aware that these clear shelf inserts do not go in easily.

The door stop is held by 2 TORX screws and can be removed in place without raising the refrigerator. The only tricky part is that you only have about 2 inches of clearance so it is hard to locate/see the screw heads. I used a small mirror to help me align the tool with the screw. If you have a small ratchet with a TORX socket it will make your installation go much faster. Each turn of the tool required me to remove and reinsert the tool. This is what takes up so much time.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.