WRS970CIDE00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Literally just unplugged the old light and removed three wire harnesses. Then installed the new light by reconnecting those three wire harnesses

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

Just plugged it in

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Took the old one out and put the new one in

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!

In the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet is a small drain that should allow any extra water to drip down to the bottom pan of the refrigerator where the compressor is. The compressor is warm and will evaporate the water quickly. If that drain gets clogged then the water will eventually spill out onto the floor. These parts are not necessary to fix the leaking water but when you open the cabinet to check around, you’ll find a lot of mold and fungus has grown on the Styrofoam because of the wet conditions. So I replaced the Styrofoam holders that secure the heat exchanger. This is easily done by removing the white plastic cover in the back of the refrigerator, and then wiggling out the two Styrofoam holders on the left and right. It’s a little easier if you have the new parts before you remove the old parts because they have to fit in just right, but it’s easily figured out. To clear the drain, it’s a little difficult because the tube makes a nearly right angle just below the drain hole. I was not able to clear the clog by pushing anything down the hole because it just hit the right angle turn. I found that I had to pull the refrigerator out, identify the tube by reaching in the back of the refrigerator toward the bottom, pull the tube straight, and then jam wire up through the tube to clear the clog. You can also buy a tube replacement but replacing the tube requires getting into the back of the refrigerator also, so both are about the same level of work.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Removed old filter then insert new filter and pushed door closed

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.