WM277W Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Move stove out from wall. Unplug from power. Removed four screws from the left side of the back (the side the light socket is on. Reach in and unplug the two wires on the back of the bulb socket assembly. Inside the oven, remove the bulb cover and the two screws holding the socket assembly. Remove assembly. Install bulb in new assembly, reattach the assembly to the oven back, reinstall the bulb cover. On the back of the stove, replug the two wires and replace the screws on the stove's back cover. Replug the unit to power and move back into position.
Sounds harder than it is. The worst part is reaching inside the oven to get at those bits.

First thing
disconnect from electricity
Remove the back cover by unscrewing its fixing screws
Using philips screw driver, To remove the scocket assembly, pull the tow electric wires from the socket, using a fine plier.
Open the oven door and unlock the glass cover and remove it.
Remove the 2 screws fixjing the socket from inside the oven.
Now the socket is ready to be disassembled by just pushing the clips with tow fingers.
Replace the socket and do same steps in reverse way.
insert the lamp, and the glass cover, connect the electricity and you are done.

The heating element is held in place by two phillips screws which were rusted fairly tight, visible at the back of the oven. I tapped my screwdriver with a hammer as I loosened them. (I would have used liquid wrench if the hammer did not work) Two wires are fastened to the element by two clips that you can slide off by hand. Slip the wires off the old element and onto the new element and install the two screws and you are done.

I removed the bad element - two screws, and tested it on my meter as recommended. The test meter showed it was bad, so I ordered a replacement element from PartSelect. I did check getting a part from a local dealer, and it would have been $10 more. The help and recommendations I recieved on the PartSelect repair forum make it easy.

Terry Hausler

My wife removed old element and replaced new element by removing and rescrewing 2 screws and detaching and retaching 2 wires to thr respective elements in about 5-10 minutes.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I removed one screw easily. The other screw was difficult to remove without stripping it. I sprayed wd 40 and let it sit overnight. The next day, my husband sprayed it again and after trying several different size phillips screwdrivers, he got the second screw out. He easily removed the element and then the two wires from it. He attached the two wires and replaced the screws. We tested it and it worked. The best part is: my husband scrubbed the oven before putting all the parts back!

I opened the oven door and unscrewed the two screws that connected the element to the back of the oven. I then pulled the element forward but it would not expose the electrical connections that powered it. I pulled a little harder and it would not pull through the insulation. I then decided that it must be accessable from the back. I took off the door the lighten the oven. I pulled the oven out of the cabinet till the conduit was taught and I could just barely see that there wasn't a panel to access the connection. I then put the back into the cabinet and pulled a little harder yet on the element and the connecters pull through the insulation. I was then able to test the element with the multimeter and decide the power was getting to the element but no heat. I ordered the part the next day. Recieved it the day after that, smokin' fast service I must add. Installed the element and it works like a new one. My wife loved it and then she loved me.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294