WM277W Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The heating element is held in place by two phillips screws which were rusted fairly tight, visible at the back of the oven. I tapped my screwdriver with a hammer as I loosened them. (I would have used liquid wrench if the hammer did not work) Two wires are fastened to the element by two clips that you can slide off by hand. Slip the wires off the old element and onto the new element and install the two screws and you are done.

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I opened the oven door and unscrewed the two screws that connected the element to the back of the oven. I then pulled the element forward but it would not expose the electrical connections that powered it. I pulled a little harder and it would not pull through the insulation. I then decided that it must be accessable from the back. I took off the door the lighten the oven. I pulled the oven out of the cabinet till the conduit was taught and I could just barely see that there wasn't a panel to access the connection. I then put the back into the cabinet and pulled a little harder yet on the element and the connecters pull through the insulation. I was then able to test the element with the multimeter and decide the power was getting to the element but no heat. I ordered the part the next day. Recieved it the day after that, smokin' fast service I must add. Installed the element and it works like a new one. My wife loved it and then she loved me.

I removed one screw easily. The other screw was difficult to remove without stripping it. I sprayed wd 40 and let it sit overnight. The next day, my husband sprayed it again and after trying several different size phillips screwdrivers, he got the second screw out. He easily removed the element and then the two wires from it. He attached the two wires and replaced the screws. We tested it and it worked. The best part is: my husband scrubbed the oven before putting all the parts back!

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

I pulled off the facia from the microwave/oven. Unscrewed the plate holding the microwave and slid out the microwave. The microwave and oven are a unit. I unscrewed the oven from the hole it sits in and slid out the oven and set it on a sturdy chair. Then I unscrewed (6 screws) the bracket that holds the microwave to the oven. After that I unscrewed (14 screws) the top sheetmetal plate on the oven and slid that around behind the oven. Then I unscrewed the grounding strap inside. Did the 2 screws on each side of the oven holding the fan unit and slid that out. Undid the 2 wires plugged into the motor and the 2 screws holding the fan motor. Then I slid off the fan from the old motor and slid it onto the new motor and reversed the whole process.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done