WM27460B Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

Thanks to JP in customer service.

TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE STOVE at the breaker box!
I had to pull all the burner knobs off (4ea) and remove the screw under each one. Then open the oven door and remove the screws holding a trim piece on and the hex head screws holding the "touch pad panel" on (was also held on by the screws I had already removed from behind the knobs) 1 smaller screw at each end (total of 2) under there hold the plastic trim on that needs to be moved slightly to let the panel come out. (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE) You hang the panel in the 2 slots provided and remove the old display unit. Gently unplug the 2 wire harnesses and ribbon that actually connect the touch panel to the display PC board. Look for the 2 small holes in the ribbon that will line up with the female part on the board. A piece on the board where the ribbon plugs in will slide up a little and allow you to plug the ribbon in and then push it gently back down. Finish putting it back together and turn power back on at the breaker box. Works perfectly.

Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and self cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

After turning off the circuit to the oven, I first removed the 6 exterior screws holding the upper unit that houses the clock element, then I disconnected the three wiring connectors. The difficult one is the ribbon connector. You must push in the two clips on the end and then raise one side of the connector in order to have it release the ribbon. then I removed the 4 screws that hold the element. You then just put the new one on in reverse of removing the old one. It works great. This could be made easier if each new unit came with visual picture instructions for removing the ribbon cable connector. I read all 14 previous customer reviews or stories, before I found one nice guy that described the proper method of removing this ribbon. Thanks

We operated the oven without the display panel for three years and finally discided to get it repaired. The cost of the repair was going to be over 330.00. I went online to PartSelect and had the part in a few days. I removed the 4 front screws behind each of the knobs, next I removed the 4 screws and 4 hex bolts under the front panel. The two side panels needed to be removed by taking out the screw from under each panel. Remove the front control panel and release the ribbon cable by pressing in on the two side tabs allowing the locking connector to be rasie up relaseing the ribbon cable. The other two power cable can be gently removed. Two hex bolts hold the disply panel to the front panel. Installation is the reverse of the removal process. The process took less then 20 minutes. PartSelect customer service was very professional and I will use them again without a second thought.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

The repair was really simple. I removed the 2 screws holding the baking element to the oven wall, pulled the element out about 2 inches, lifted the front of the element and pulled it out more to reach the 2 wires. I disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure for installation, inserted the 2 screws and turned the power back on. The element works fine.

Had estimates of $ 500.00+ to replace clock assembly. Purchased it at parts select for approx $ 200.00 and put it in myself. Will pocket the $ 300.00. Thanks. Turn breaker to stove off. Removed four screws underneath front panel. Must open oven door to access screws. Tilted the panel out from the bottom allowing the top of the panel to come out. Had to remove the two knobs on either side of the clock along with the clock knobs. When the two knobs on the side are removed it releases the mounting brackets for the clock inside the panel. Replaced clock assembly wires one at a time. Reassembled in reverse procedure.

The expert said to replace the clock control and linked to the replacement part. The part was promptly shipped. The only difficult part of the repair turned out to be the removal of the ribbon from the old controller. I noted the tabs on the side of the ribbon receptacle and expected the ribbon to release when these were pushed in. What was actually needed was to not only push in but also to pull upward on the tabs in order to release the ribbon. That was not obvious and it took me a while to get the ribbon released.

First I turned the power off to the stove at the breaker box. I opened the oven door and took off the four hex head screws holding the face panel on. There are four philips screws holding a trim piece on the panel that does not need to be removed and the two end caps do not need to be removed either. I pulled the panel out and tipped it up so I could access the clock display unit. There are two wiring harness clips that unplugged very easily. The ribbon connector is a little more tricky. You have to slide up two clips on the end and then slide up a section going across the ribbon. It's very easy, just don't try to pull the ribbon out without undoing the clips. The display unit was held on with two hex head screws. I removed them, attatched the new one and put it back together. I then turned the oven back on to see if it worked. The display worked perfectly but, the oven would still not get hot on bake. I turned the breaker off again and removed the shelves in the oven. I then removed the two phillips screws holding the bottom bake burner in and pulled it out until I could access the clips. I pulled off the clips and checked the burner for continuity. There was none so I ordered a new bake burner. The new burner showed up the next day and I hooked it up in about 5 minutes. The oven works great and I couldn't be happier with the experience I had with partselect.com

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

The range had to be pulled away from the wall to access all of the retaining screws. Once all the screws were removed, the top was easily lifted away, allowing easy access to the clock unit. Three wire connectors were also easily disconnected, and the clock was secured by only two accessible screws. Reassembly was straight-forward; the only difficult, and time-consuming part was sliding the range back against the wall, as tolerances were tight. The repair took 45-60 minutes and the clock shines brightly!

Turned off the breaker to the stove and removed the 4 screws under the control panel. The trim strip and the end caps did not have to be removed. The control panel was lowered just enough to clear the upper edge and then tilted forward so the connectors could be disconnected. Two screws holding the display in place were removed and the new display swapped out. Reassembly was disassembly in reverse. (My wife appreciates having a bright display again.)