WM2016CW (00) LG Washer - Instructions

Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

After finding you on google it was easy to repair. It saved me $95.00 service charge. Your direction made it very easy.

Loosened hose clamps to remove old bellows. That seemed simple but was awkward reaching into the confined space. Clamp adjustments were all installed facing away from access opening. New one went on easy and I reinstalled clamps facing the opening. Perfect fit!

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

Conclusion was that either the control panel or the noise filter (an electrical fuse apparatus)was bad. Disconnected the water line, turned off power, and pulled unit out from cabinets. Determined that voltage was going into the noise filter (white harness) but almost no voltage coming out (red harness). Ordered noise filter. Hardest part was removing old noise filter from dishwasher frame without removing the whole unit from cabinet and turning upside down.One screw holds the part in the frame. With power off, I used a very small ratchet with phillips screw driver. Pried unit out with screw driver on side to the panel front. It has a retaining tab there.Installation was the reverse. Instead of putting screw back the way it was originally installed, I screwed it in from the outside of the frame. Much easier and just as solid. Tested unit with power on. Hooked up water line. Works great. Note: LG dishwahers have a high repair rate and that this part has a high failure rate. This LG unit was two years old. Never had to fix my 15 year old Sears dishwasher. It still works to this day. (I gave it to my daughter.)

Disconnected power. Removed washer top; only 2 screws in back. Disconnected two wire connectors on Filter Assembly Circuit. Removed assembly; 1 screw. Installed new assembly, reconnected wires, and replaced washer top.

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

First, slide top cover back, then lift of washer. Remember to turn off water supply and disconnect cold water hose before working on valve. Also, unplug washer from wall socket. Disconnect three small electric plugs from valve, noting the postion on valve,then disconnect the water hoses from valve, noting postition of each hose. Remove two small screws holding valve to washer,remove and replace valve.reistall valve, reconnect hoses and electric connectors. Reconnect water supply, turn on water supply, check for leak, reconnect power cord to wall socket. Run washer through normal wash cycle, observing water valve for leaks, normal operation, if no problems, then reinstall top on washer

Removed the top, the front, got to the pump, removed it and replace it with the new one.

Found the part of Part Select by describing the problem. used a Utube video and step by step we were able to take apart, replace and put back everything with just a screw driver - I saved so much money!

The pump is apparently used for more than one washer, and the R&R instructions may be significantly different. I found a youtube video for my exact washer.

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

My washer would try to spin and remove the water according to the time allowed. Consequently my washer would take longer than the time allowed to drain therefore water would send a code error then the machine would stop working. So I remove the hose from the pump and found my son's little small sock blocking the drain. I removed the sock and reinstalled all hoses. Everything is fine now. No need for a replacement item. Just a little servicing.

Found on line OE meant washer not pumping out water with the suggestion to clean the filter and inspect the pump and lines for blockage. No problems there. You must be careful to empty the water manually before removing the filter. My wet vac helped but I still made a mess. I found a mechanic to look at the washer. He said it is common for the pump on these washers to go bad, especially if the washer has sat out of service. They wanted $300 to replace the pump. I found the part on this website for $53 and replaced it myself. The only hard part was emptying the water without making a mess and leaning the washer up and back far enough safely to remove the pump, then working on my back under the machine.

I ran the spin & drain cycle to empty the drum,I waited to be see how long it took to see a noticeable level of water in the drum (1-2hrs).decided to check the cold water valve first.Found that there was rust forming around the solnoid piston,making it hang up,most of the time it tryed to open, or close. cleaned with light sand paper(piston), and ordered part with parts select. Which was real easy,because of the knowledgeable staff,parts came in as promised,and in good shape,and most important of all it was the exact replacement part. My wife is HAPPY,which makes my life good too! THANKS Parts select..