WFE540H0AS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Just follow included instructions.

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Watch the video...

I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

Purchased new switch shut off breaker unscrew the back plate remove front knob and two screws that hold it on remove the two electrical clips from old switch then reinstall in reverse order. Also watched the youtube video before hand, great help!

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

There is a good video on YouTube that shows exactly how to replace the bake element. Had mine fixed in 15 to 20 minutes. Saved me about $150 by not having to call repairman.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Took 2 screws holding vent trim to door removed 2 screws holding handle to vent trim, put handle on new vent trim put vent trim back on door

Followed the video on this site.

I removed the stainless steel front panel from the door after removing the door from the oven. The glass panel is stuck to the panel with 4 strips of double-sided tape. I first had to use some B'Laster PB Penetrating Catalyst (some solvent I found in my garage, as I could not find any WD-40 and the lockdown prevented me from going to Home Depot) to loosen the original tape strips. I removed them after soaking in the catalyst spray for about 5-10 minutes using a 1.25" metal putty knife. Once that was mostly removed, I used Goo Gone to remove the rest of the tape residue.

The original tape was about 3/8" thick and 1/4" wide. I have a large roll of double-sided tape in my garage, which is 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick. I tripled up the 4 strips so the glass would not bend when sandwiched between the stainless steel panel and door. Once the tape strips were down, I removed the adhesive cover and placed the glass panel on the steel panel. I reassembled the door, and mounted it back on the oven.

The hardest part was removing the old tape & residue. The oven works great now, and I'm glad I was able to get the glass from this site.