WERP3000PB4 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element

Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.

I looked at the symbol codes located at the schematic diagram. Schematic diagram is located at the back of range. I followed step by step troubleshooting procedure on the diagram then ordered part. The control panel is easy to remove and install, just plug and play.

It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

I took out the two screws that held the oven handle in place inserted the glass in the door and replaced the two screw!!! That easy!

Un-screwed 4 screws. Got part numbers off of the pieces. Put numbers in blank on web site and ordered the pieces. Parts cam in 4 days later and installed the pieces with my trusty screwdriver.

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

Ordered a new switch and replaced the old one with it.

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Pulled the dial off, unscrew two screws. Pull the switch out from the back. Disconnect the wires from the old switch and connect to the new switch one by one. Set the new switch in place. Sctew the two screws in to hold the switch in place. Push on the dial.

My husband pulled the oven out and unscrewed the screws(in the back) the heating element came right out. He did everything on his own. The only thing he needed a little help with was for me to keep the heating coil flush to the back wall of the oven, while he screwed the new one in. It was a very quick job. The longest part was pulling the oven out to get behind it and sliding it back in.