W216 - Instructions

I used two pry bars to evenly and gently remove old pulley then I gently hammered new one in place and reinstalled belt.

Hired someone. Note: I purchased two (2) hoses and (2) clamps -- this is the third time I am replacing a cracked hose. The manufacturer needs to use better quality and more flexible material for hoses.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

We followed the instructions show on the video. However, our model was assembled slightly different. We had to remove the screws from both sides of the side panels so that we could remove the tub from inside of the machine. Also our model only has one belt not two.
Over all it was easy considering my husband and I had never attempted to repair a washer. Once we got it back together it when back to working like it had never been broken!
We would have never been able to repair our washer without the video that your site provided... thanks so much!!??

Sure wish the manufactures would consider making the older models again as lots of us are not happy with the new modules being manufactured presently!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Shut off electricity to oven. Remove existing screws attaching element to back wall of oven. Use pliers to pull off wire connectors. To install the new element, reverse these steps. It's that simple.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

1. Disconnected the electrical cord from the socket & the hose lines from the faucets.
2. Pulled out the washing machine from against the wall to make room for working.
3. Opened the back of the control cabinet by removing the 5 screws.
4. Disconnected the wiring ( making sure to identify all connections and color of wiring ) from the control cabinet and pulled through the opening on the cabinet top.
5. Popped the lid open from the front of the washer using a screwdriver by prying it open and removed the hinge lid from the cabinet top.
6. Removed the control cabinet from the cabinet top, disconnected the safety latch from the cabinet top.
7. Removed the water inlet guide & a vacuum hose from the cabinet top.
8. Removed the hinge brackets from the back of the washer which holds the cabinet top in place.
9. Removed the hinged lid from the cabinet top..
10. Installed new hinges on to hinge lid .

Installed new cabinet top in reverse order as above.

loved that I was able to get just the part i needed and not the whole shaft

First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.

Popped the top of the washer up and on the right rear of the washer was the valve. Disconnected the hoses and removed the screws, drop the new valve in and replaced the hoses and it was done. Total time was less then 5 minutes. Any one can do it!

I found the model, ordered the new seal, it arrived very quickly via mail and I replaced the seal. You simply slid off the old, slid on the new one and hooked it in place. No expensive repairman!

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.