SRA22B Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Unplug fridge. Pull out drip tray at the bottom of the dispenser, remove 2 screws under it. Remove 2 screws holding dispenser to fridge. Disconnect wiring harness. Replace switch and Actuator pad. Re assemble in reverse order and plug the fridge back in. Have a cold glass of water, with ice, and no overflow on the floor. Saved quite a bit of $ to boot!

Removed drive assembly end of ice bin using socket wrench to get to old ice bin drive ring. Pull drive sssembly back to get ice bin ring out of the other end of ice bin. Installed new ice bin ring and and reinstall drive assembly end.

Before starting unplug the refrigerator
1) Remove the drip grate
2) Remove the 2 screws located at bottom of dispenser (they were located under the drip grate)
3) Remove dispenser trim plate by carefully disconnedting the touch pad wire.
4) Remove 2 screws on top right and left side of dispenser.
5) Remove 1 screw located in middle of dispenser (near the ice dam).
6) Remove Dispenser from refrigerator.
7) Completely clean the dispenser
8) Remove old Actuator Pad
9) Unscrew Limit Switch
10) Remove wire connections on limit switch.
11) Screw in new Limit Switch
12) Connect wires to limit switch (in same manner as they came off)
13) Install new Actuator Pad (make sure you align the "pusher" with the Limit switch).
14) Put the dispenser back into the refrigerator (Make sure you install the water line in its slot)
15) Install the 3 screws
16) Reconnect wire to trim plate.
17) Install 2 screws at bottom of dispenser
18) replace drip grate.
19) Plug in refrigerator
20) Enjoy water/ice dispenser that shuts off.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Replacing the hinge pin itself is really easy. Most important is to brace the bottom of the door before replacing the pin, otherwise the door will drop as the bottom hinge must be removed to install the new pin.

A couple of short lengths of 2x4s used to brace the door bottom worked fine. With these in place the door did not drop down after removing the hinge. Replacement of the hinge and pin easy.

Make sure power is off- throw circuit breaker and check with tick tracer.
remove spill tray by sliding it out.
unscrew two torx at bottom of outer frame
flip the frame up to get acces to disconnect wire harnes.
unscrew 3 screws on each side and two on the top.
gentle wiggle mechanism from the door.
disconnect wire harness.
take the unit to a good working surface like the kitchen table.
Disconnect two scres holding wire limit switch in place.
remove switch and disconnet two spade connectoed wires.
connect spade wires to new limit swtich.
screwm back in place.
turn over the unit.
remove the actuator pad (no tools required) it wraps around the unit and has little slots that hook over little tabs on the back edge of the unit. (tought ot describe in words but my 5 year old could probably do it)

My dryer will not say hot. When I turn on the dryer, the flame will turn on but seconds later it turns off. I researched through various sites on the internet and decided my gas coils needed to be replaced. Well, that didn't work so I am currently ordering a ignitor assembly to try and fix the problem......wish me luck

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.

First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.

Pulled broken plastic end stop from door. Basket fits right into the two side holes and pulls down to lock. Relatively easy fix and replacing basket stop.