SAV5701AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Brake pad kit does not come with installation instructions even though it says it does. Remove bottom front panel from washer. There are three brake pads. One of mine (the right one) broke into three pieces and was found on the bottom of the washer. This is how I identified what was wrong. Run the washing machine on the handwash extra light cycle (you could use another cycle, I used this one because I believe it is the shortest), there is a point in the cycle where the disk clamping the brake pads separates from the brake pads and allows you to remove and replace the pads. During other parts of the cycle, the disk is clamped onto the brakes and you could not remove or install a brake pad. I removed the two black hose on the bottom right to get to the right brake pad. Have a 2 gallon bucket ready to collect the water if you did run the washer as above. With difficulty, I was also able to reach around the back side of the right brake pad. I used a socket wrench set. I then removed and replaced the left brake pad. I left the rear brake pad in place. I was not able to get to it.

To replace the pump and belt for the Maytag washer, you really need remove the springs and suspended the tubs. I needed help to pull the 2 springs out (high tension) with a big plier. I removed the 3 bolts that held the motor to the frame and flipped it out to the side to expose the 3 long screws that attached the pump to the motor. The pump was easily removed and replaced with the Philip screw driver. I preset the belt between the pump and the rotor before sliding the motor back in place. After botling the motor back into the frame and carefully pull and snap the spring back into the holes, I routed the belt around the pulley and turned it into the groove. This took some time to get it on properly as it is pretty tight. Once the cover was replaced, the washer worked as expected.

The washer is four years old.
This is the second time I needed to replace this same drain hose on this same washer since I had the machine
There is only my wife ant myself maybe, 2 -3 medium size loads per week - why I would have two drain lines develop the same problem in almost the same location in two years is disconcerting
There must be a design problem with the clear plastic hose - Suggest Maytag go to a thick walled rubber hose
The hole is alway inside the washer on the bottom just after the hose bracket - I suspect that something rubbing causing a small pin hole to develop - when the condition first starts it is very difficult to located -There will be water under the washer
Run the washer and discharge the water - to locate

The replacement must be made through the lower front removable panel - and is easier to do if the pump return hose is also disconnected from the pump

Be very carful with the thin wall replacement hose - very light weight plastic - do not pull across the floor of washer - it could easily get damaged

Your company did a get job getting the part to me - The Fed Ex track system was great
I could tell exactly where the delivery was al all times -

I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.

Following on-line instructions for the dis-assembly. Replaced bearing and seals for outer drum bearing and cleaned and lubed assembly.

Needed a medium extension and a rachet a screw driver and a 13mm socket. I used a short screw driver and inserted in it the softer container and lifted it strait up to get the softner container out of the way. I used the medium extension to reach in the auger and loosen the small bolt holding the auger on the machine. Pulled it up and out. Reversed the above procedure and it was set to go. Total time about 8 to 10 minutes. Thank for all the help Kudos to all including Susan W.

Not only very loud at spin cycle, but started to leak water as well. Pulled lower front panel off and ran a load of clothes while laying on the floor with flashlight watching. Sure enough, water spraying out from outer tub bearing area.
Remove top front panel, sides and top, disconnect hoses and unplug wires at top of control panel, there is a plug in there. Now you should just have base unit and tub exposed so you have plenty of room to work. Next joy is to remove agitator. This is where my fun began. After removing fabric softner dispenser from top of agitator, I could not see bolt holding it on. There was a long plastic rod sticking up which looked like part of the agitator itself, so went online to a repairmans site and they said simply pull that rod out and bolt will be under it. Paid 24 bucks to them and still could not remove rod, ended up going thru slots in side of agitator with a small chisel and cutting it off, then took a 3/4" hole saw and drilled hole in top of agitator, its only about 1/8" thick and what do you know, THERE is the bolt!!!!!!! Removed bolt and out comes agitator. Next, remove cap from outer tub, take 4 bolts out of inner tub, remove inner tub. Next, remove plastic nut from shaft, I tried this with channelocks and could not budge it, ended up splitting nut with chisel and slightly damaged threads on shaft which I cleaned up easily with 60 degree thread file. Be very careful if you use this method. You can use channelocks to reinstall, just clamp on the unfinned part of nut.Take out the lint filter and throw in garbage, do not reinstall!!!!!! That filter is part of the reason tub bearing goes out!! Next, remove aluminum hub from shaft, mine was already loose so was easy. If yours is tight, screw in one of the old inner tub bolts almost all the way in and use hammer and punch to loosen. You can do the same for new one. Next, remove 6 bolts from outer tub and pull outer tub off shaft.Flip outer tub upside down and gently pry bearing out, mine came out easy as was spinning inside tub bearing fit. After cleaning everything I used Scotchseal 800 industrial sealant because bearing fit was loose. I made a clamp out of 1x2 wood and a long 1/4" bolt to hold bearing in tub to prevent it from pushing out, sometimes the sealant will cause this to happen, then I let it setup for 24 hours. Put it all back together, no leaks and SUPER quiet. Be sure and check your bottom bearing too while you have it all torn down, mine was fine. Do not forget to change O ring on spline shaft before reinstalling agitator. As far as the hole I drilled in agitator, just tapped it 1/2" pipe and screwed in a plastic pipe plug. You will need an extension and a 5/8" 12 point socket to do this.

Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

The replacement was very easy, just one bolt and RR was a snap. However, the first part that came was defective and I called the 800 number, spoke to the rep and the part came the next day. Excellent customer service, and would do business again

I first took the fabric softener dispenser off and used
a ratchet wrench to take the nut off. I then removed
the agitator, put the new one on and reversed the process. It was extremely easy!

pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.

removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

I had some sweaking and then burning followed. I came to find the belt had burnt and stopped my washer from working. Ordered a belt and replaced. Washer worked for one week. Squeaking and burning again. Belt was still intact, thank goodness. Beleive it is another pulley part for the washer. Might order another part. Overall the fix was good, but had another issue.