RSCA207AAM Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
fridge door switch did not work
I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!
Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.
Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.
Parts Used:
-
stu from richmond, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Old ice maker started leaking
Took under 5 minutes. Removed two screws and unplugged the wire bundle from refrigerator. Removed old unit. Put old wire bundle on new unit. Plugged wire bundle back into refrigerator and remounted the new ice maker. Could not have been easier. Watched the video first, it was very helpful.
Parts Used:
-
Curtis from Barrington, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
water leak and frezes ice in bin
to easy to describe, remove 3 screws and a wire plug then install new unite.
Works great
Thanks
Works great
Thanks
Parts Used:
-
Peter from Lancaster, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
water overflow,coating on tray peeling off
remove 3 screws,rotate assembly,depress lock on wire harnass connector,un plug harnass.remove old assembly,remove and transfer side cover and steel wire at front of assembly,connect harnass to new assembly,rotate into place,aling screw holes and install 3 screws.flip front steel wire down and wait for about 1 hour,first tray of ice will fall..all done.
Parts Used:
-
Jeffery from vero beach, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Door light switch disintegrated
Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch
Parts Used:
-
Thomas from Roseville, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Not making ice, and water leaking in freezer
Unplugged the power, removed old icemaker by removing 3 screws and unplugging a small wire harness
Then i moved the wire harness off the old one to the new one, moved the end cover over to new one and plugged the harness back in and screwed it back in and turned it on
ALL FIXED!
Then i moved the wire harness off the old one to the new one, moved the end cover over to new one and plugged the harness back in and screwed it back in and turned it on
ALL FIXED!
Parts Used:
-
Raymond from Northglenn, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Light didnt go on
The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!
Parts Used:
-
dorotea from staten island, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice maker flaked and leaked leaving big glob of ice
Unplug wire harness back of fridge. Unscrewed 4 screws on guide for ice bin. then unscrewed two screws holding ice maker to wall of fridge. removed ice maker. then had to take front cover off (pull hard, it comes off) and remove wire harness plug from the ice maker. save this, front cover, and all hardware to re-use. reverse steps to reinstall, including wire guide that goes up and down to stop and start ice maker when bin fills. Have to put this into front part of ice maker correctly for it to work. make sure it is down so that it will produce ice. ice tray took a few hours to fill with water initially, must be on a timer or something.
Parts Used:
-
chris from manvel, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice tray filled up with water. Stopped making ice.
As per instructions. Removed parts from old ice maker, and installed them on new one, Then installed it in the freezer. Works good.
Parts Used:
-
robert from COLDSPRING, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice from icemaker taste metallic; new ice maker directly from box
I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.
Parts Used:
-
Samuel from ALEXANDRIA, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
Parts Used:
-
Cami from Carmel, IN
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice Maker Leaked Creating an Ice block
Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator
Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws
Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove
Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm
Remove the wire arm and install on new maker
Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one
Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker
Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place.
This took less than 5 minutes.
Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws
Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove
Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm
Remove the wire arm and install on new maker
Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one
Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker
Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place.
This took less than 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
-
Loren from Indianapolis, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Replaced leaking ice maker after minor screwup!
Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!
Parts Used:
-
Jackson from Leesburg, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broke light switch while cleaning
use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks
Parts Used:
-
Gail from Golden, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
icemaker quit working
I took out 1 screw , unplugged the icemaker and lifted it out and installed the new one and had ice in no time at all. can't get much easier.
Parts Used:
-
craig from green bay, WI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!