RS36*R2 General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, reconnected the wires to the new element, reattached it to the oven and voila!

It worked. What was really cool, once I ordered the part, I received it in only two work days!

Good job folks!

The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

Hardest part was getting the wrong element and having to send it back and reordering correct one....too many variables. Two screws inside the oven removed, pull out range and take off back and attach new element to plug ins!

It was so easy. I turned off the power to the range, loosened the hinge screw and removed the burner unit from the stovetop. Next I removed the two spring clips holding the ceramic housing covering the three connectors. Then I loosened the three screws holding the 3 wire connectors to the burner, reconnected the 3 wires to the new burner unit, positioned the ceramic insulator housing and reinstalled the spring clips and finally replaced and tightened the hinge screw. It took about 5 or six minutes, max.
You can do this!

Turned off power at breaker panel. Removed 2 screws attaching element to stove. Pulled element out a couple of inches and removed 2 wires attached with screws. Installation is reverse order of removal.
Be careful not to twist the terminal ends when tightening screws.

shipping was very fast!

Of course I unplugged the stove. Then I removed the cover to reveal the connections for the element. After unscrewing the two wire connectors, I had to use a nut driver to remove the two screws holding it in place in the oven. The new element went in easily. I screwed it in place in the oven and then attached the two wires in the back and replaced cover. Plugged it in, tested it, and we were good to go.

Note: this was a second attempt, The first time I ordered a heating element with push on connectors not screw on. Beware! Pay attention to the pictures and description. I ordered too quickly.

Our element blew in our oven, we took it out and saw what we needed. It was very easy to see what part we needed to order because of the great pictures on the website. The larger views really helped. We got the part quickly and put it in. It was a breeze and now our oven is working great! The best part however, is it only cost about $33.00 including shipping and handling. Much cheaper than if we would have had someone come in to fix it!

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Raise burner high enough to remove screw located on hinge between coils. Remove screw completely and lift-out burner and ceramic block with wire connections.
Remove the wires from the connector block and strip-back the ends of both about 3/4". Make connections per the diagram and then assemble the ceramic blocks around the connection in a sandwiched fashion and secure the halves with the clips provided.
Now sit the burner down into place. An extra pair of hands is good here to hold the chrome trim ring and the coil up directly opposite the hinge. Then, peek under the coil and using fingertips, get the screw provided started in the hinge bracket and run this screw up snugly. A 1/4" nut driver makes this part easier, but a screwdriver will get it done.
That's it. Just flip the breaker to restore power and cross your fingers. A fairly easy job that took about 40 minutes to do both 8" elements The potentially frustrating parts are the ceramic terminal block assembly and replacing the hinge screw, but a job that's very doable. Oh, don't forget to slip the drip pans back in.

First, shut off the breaker to the stove. Removed old element by unscrewing the two screws on the plate where the element attached at the bottom of the inside of the oven. The old element was corroded at the connection, so disconnect it, attached the new one, pushed it back in the insulated socket then reattached the two screws on the plate. Flipped the breaker back on. Works great. Only took about 25 min. from start to finish.

Teh instillation was a simple matter of removing the old burners and replacing them with the new ones. Removal required the screw connector on each burner ring to be loosened and the reverse done when the new one was installed. The hardest part was finding the correct burners since the Model number of the stove was not in anyones file. This web site provided adequate pictures of the part to permit identification of the likely part to order. Thanks.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Note: Please make sure power is off!!! Turn off at the fuse panel,Main. Test oven after you turn off breaker...try turning on oven with normal switch, indicator light should be off. Also check interior light, usually wired 110 volts, may be on a separate circuit, just for safety!!. Remove retaing screws, scewdriver will work , but a nut driver is easier. Pull old element out gently and check between terminals with volt meter. Remove screws on element holding feed wire, reverse this process to install. Test oven for proper operation after installation...make sure oven cycles through a set temperature range.

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.