RF377PXWN2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I read several posts of this glass door replacement before ordering and was a little hesitant, but after looking at my stove door broken for a number of years I decided to make a move. I searched the site found item # PS337162 and ordered it. The posts didn't sound too complicated. The glass arrived in two days, the repair went amazingly fast 20 min max. The following worked well for us:

1) Removed screws from around door bottom, top and sides. DID NOT REMOVE SCREWS MIDWAY UP ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR, HOLDS THE SPRING LATCHES.

2) Removing the door is not necessary once the screws are out, the outside panel comes loose from the interior. Propped the exterior part of the door up to meet the top of the drawer on the bottom of the stove, the natural position of the door as if it were opened during normal cooking.

3) Once the exterior part is off, the interior is exposed, removed the screws which held # 4 glass along with brace in place (4 screws hexagon screws) before being able to remove the full size interior panel which holds the # 7 glass in place.

4) After removing the #4 glass, etc. the inner most part is exposed, the interior full size panel needs to be removed, took 4 screws (hexagon) loose and the panel pulled a loose freely.

5) When removing this panel be careful, the #7 glass drops freely once the panel is pulled back, there is also exposed insulation. Remove the exterior #7 glass and then pull the aluminum 1" spacer out to reach the inner most piece of #7 glass (this is the one I needed to replace) exposed inside oven. The cork seal appeared to be in good condition and did not need to be replaced.

6) Clean glass, and reassembled. Sounds like a lot but it is not, never removed the door from the hinges and replacement went very quickly. I wish I would have done this years ago.

I have had this stove since July 1994 and its been great, I have had no problems except the glass of which had nothing to do with the mfg.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

After shutting off the power, I removed the door and oven racks. Then, by using a screwdriver, I removed each element one at a time and replaced with the new element. Each element pulled away from the back wall and was connected electrically by Sta-Kon connectors. All went well, and the unit was operational in about 30 minutes. I still have to remove the oven from the wall to replaced the two door springs.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed the two Philips head screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Pulled off the two wire terminals from the spades on the back of the element. Pushed the two wire terminals onto the spades on the back of the new element. Noticed that one was not tight, so disconnected, squeezed down the wire terminal, and reconnected. Inserted the two screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Element works fine.

Turn Off Breaker.

Removed oven racks....

Removed two screws holding element in place...

Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....

Replace oven racks.

Turn Breakers back On.

Done 10 Min. Install

This is an easy fix. Just before the holidays, it was imperative that this appliance be in top shape. Since the door 'hung' wrong, it was determined that the hinge pin broke. Remove the 2 phillips head screws on the door and open the door to the to a 15 degree opening. This position allows you to slip the door off the hinge levers. Now that the door is off, replace the hinge pin and slip the retainer ring on with a screw driver blade to push it on the pin. Slide the door back on the levers and fasten the retainer screws. DONE!

1. Open door and place a nail in the small circle in each of the two side hinges. This step is crucial. It keeps the hinges from springing back into the oven when the door is removed.

2. Remove the 2 screws on the oven door at the top of each spring. Close the door until stopped by the 2 nails, then lift the door up and off the hinges.

3. Lay the door on a soft surface(some oven parts may be greasy), inside of the door face up, and remove the 5 screws holding the main two halves of the door together. Remove the top piece.

4. Remove the 4 screws that are under the insulation strips. This will damage the strips, but there is no other way. Just try to keep as much of the strip as you can.

5. Continue removing screws and layers of glass (ours had 3 inner layers)until you reach the inner most piece.

6. Replace the broken glass and then reverse the process to put everything back together.

Notes: We work slowly and methodically, so the whole process took us over an hour but we also took this opportunity to really clean every crack and crevasse that is normally hidden. All in all this was not a very hard job and worth doing it as a DYI project instead of calling a repair person.

My husband wanted me to call a repair man but I had read online how easy it was. I received my element in one day from Fresno, CA and followed the instructions given by others on line. I couldn't believe how easy it was. The most difficult was removing the connectors because they were stuck. I used needle nose pliers as someone suggested. Saved the cost of a repair man.

First I removed the ovem door, then I removed the 4 screws, unplugged element and plugged in the new one, then replace the screws and door. It should have been a 10 min job but I'm old and a bit fat...slowed me down.

First tried to replace the glass and gasket without removing the oven door. Removed all screws and took the door apart. However, I found it was very hard to get the gasket to stay in place and put the glass window in place with the door frame still attached to the oven and upright. Decided to go ahead and lift the door off the hinges by removing the two final screws. Then the door could be layed flat on the floor and it was much easier to put in the insulation and glass pane.

1. Move oven out from wall 2. Remove back panel of oven, 8 screws 3. Remove 3 screws inside oven holding element 4. Pulled wire connections off of element 5. Reverse procedure to install new element

First, shut off the power at the breaker panel. Next, I simply unscrewed the screws holding in each element, disconnected the leads, reconnected the leads to the new elements, positioned each element & reinserted the screws. A suggestion: Before loosening the screws, a light shot of PB Blaster or similar might help.

Open oven door. Still power to the wall, but all Knobs in "OFF" position. two phillips screws, pull old element back, and disconnect both leads. Put the leads on the new element and reinsert with two mounting screws. Simple.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.