RB5284A1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.

The part arrived ahead of time by mail. I removed the old coil, very simple,, I installed the new one just as easy , Turned on oven and it worked prefectly , its a very simple procedure, thank you

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

The bake element was completely missing from the stove. There were two wires sticking out of the back of the oven, one with a terminal on the end and the other with the insulation still on and no bare wire showing/ The right side mounting screw was there..

The left mounting screw hole on the oven had been drilled out oversized, so I drilled another hole in the mounting plate above the original., after attaching the element with a single screw.

I removed the one screw, removed the bake element and pulled the electrical wire without the terminal end. Next, I put a terminal on the wire and attached the wires to the element. Finally I installed the element with the two screw into the rear of the oven.

Unfortunately the element didn't work, so my next step is to trace the wiring and determine if a switch or thermostat might be faulty. I have checked the continuity of the wires from the bake element to the thermostat.

More in chaper two..

Oven unit went well and is working. Tilt burner unit was wrong and did not fit. Needs to be replaced by 8 inch tilt burner with four input.

Repair was easy.
Note: the element leads have a potential across them,
so unplug the unit or you'll have an arc strike.

I liked the selection method at PartsSelect.com.
Finding the replacement part was easy from the pictures.
The prices were reasonable.

The part came next day, which was a surprise.
Removal and Installation was 4 screws.
I have become a DIY hero.

Only downside was going out for dinner every night ended.
This site is now a Favorite.

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 2 inches and disconnected the two wires.

I reconnected the two wires to the new element and screwed the new element to the wall of the oven where the element was held in place.

Turn off the breaker. Unscrew the element. Remove and replace with new element. Screw it back into place. Turn on the breaker.

That simple, that easy.

It was realatively simple, turned off the power to the oven, removed the bake element , by loosening the two metal screws in the back of the oven, with a nut driver and removing the screws, then pulling the element outward, to expose the two wires ,that were connected to the element, using a nut driver to remove the two screws and a pair of pliers to hold the wire connectors, then removed the old element. Installed the new bake element, by connecting the two wires to the element, with the two screws, then pushing the element back in place , attaching the element to the back of the oven, with the two metal screws, finished with the installation, turned power back to the oven , and tested to make sure the oven worked , all done.

popped the new one on!

Tried contacting GE and no luck, they did not have vintage parts. After searching and locating Partselect, I was able to see a pic of the actual replacement part. I wasn't sure about purchasing online (1st timer) but decided to go for it!

I was able to track the package, although FedEX was setup to deliver to my resdient, I had the package addressed to my office but we worked that out also and walla.

I was very please and now I can bake my famous Pot Roast again. The oven was not working for 8 mos.

Good Eaten!

SJ-Long Beach CA