RB5282A1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

First removed screws then removed burned out element.Replaced with new element and replaced screws and cooked pizza.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 2 inches and disconnected the two wires.

I reconnected the two wires to the new element and screwed the new element to the wall of the oven where the element was held in place.

Removed 2 mounting screws - Removed 2 screws used to attach wiring to element. Received new element and re-attached the 4 screws.

popped the new one on!

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

The delivery of the part was within 3 days.I only had to connect the two screws had biscuits that night.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Simply removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. Part Select was the only company that was able to identify the part without the Model Number. The Model number was
worn off and unable to read. After going through several
on-line parts dealers, Part Select was the only company that could identify the part I needed. The repair was simple and
short. My old stand by oven is in operation again.
Thanks, Laura

The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwise the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.

I unplugged the stove, unscrewed two nuts, pulled the two wires forwrd and disconnected them. Attached the wires to the new burner and it works fine!

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

(e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...)

First -- and thank goodness I read some of these stories first or I would have forgotten -- I turned off the circuit breaker to the stove.

I removed the two nut screws holding the element itself to the back of the over. Then I removed two more nut screws holding the element to the electrical wires. (This took some WD-40. The stove is about 25 years old.)

That was about it. Everything lined up perfectly, and there was nothing more to do except reconnect the new element and throw the breaker back on. It works!