PSKS333EB3WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed old circuit board and replaced with new

I lifted the old switch with a flat screwdriver, attached wires, and popped into place. Saved 80 bucks for a repair call.

1. Unplugged the refrigerator 2. Vacuum inside of dust 3. Unscrewed motor and fan 4. Replaced motor then fan 5. Plugged refrigerator bingo! :)

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

replaced it

The repair was very easy, I just had to replace some bad bearing slides in the drawer pull. Remove the end cap, remove the top drawer, remove the old bearing slide from the drawer slide and snap the new one in. finally replacing the end caps.
Ordering the parts was easy and delivery was fast.

Turned off the water. Removed the maintenance cover plate on the back of the refrigerator and disconnected the tubing. Removed the tubing cover plate on back of refrigerator. Removed two screws from filter hosing mount on the inside of the refrigerator and pulled the old tubing out. Simply inserted the new tubing and mounted the housing and reconnected the tubing using plumber’s pipe compound. Then re-installed the cover plates on the back of the refrigerator, installed the filter and turned on the water. It was a very easy install.

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

after changing the water filter and having no improvement. I went to the next part of the system. Turned off the water supply. I removed the bottom cover in the back of the refrigerator. unscrewed the nuts on the water supply hose from the main supply and the one going back into the fridge. moved to the inside of fridge and unscrewed two screws holding the filter mount and pulled the tubing through. Reversed my steps and the water flow was great . Thanks

So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

1. Unplugged the fridge. 2. unplugged the fan connection and removed the wire holding clip. 3. removed the 2 screws holding the motor bracket in place and removed the bracket. 4. Pulled gently back on the motor so that the fan pressed against the front bracket until the fan slid off the motor shaft. 5. Pulled the rubber motor mounts off of the old motor and placed on the new motor. 6. Slide the new motor in place pressed the fan all the way onto the shaft. 7. Placed the rear motor bracket in place and started the screws by hand making sure the ground wire was attached to the furthest away screw. 8. tightened the screws down. 9. Pushed in the wire holding clip into the clip hole. 10. Plugged back in the fan. 11. Plugged back in the fridge. 12. Turned down the temp on the fridge to kick on the compressor and checked to assure the fan was operating and then set the temp back to normal. 13. Vacuumed the condenser coils to get them all clean and ready for more years of service!

Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

Very easy to install. Simply follow the hoses to the end. One ends under the freezer door in front. The other requires you to take the back panel off the fridge - then its right there. There is a blue valve where it connects. Pull back on the white ring at the top of the blue valve and the old tube will release. Then you can just pull the old water tank out and thread the new tubes through. Connect the same way and you disconnected.

--Removed bottom rear panel (right under where 220 line comes in) which exposed belt and idler pulley.
--Relieved tension on belt by moving idler arm and moved belt off idler puller (just to the side).
--Removed e-clip.
--Removed old pulley and washers.
--Installed new thick plastic washer first, then pulley, then e-clip.
--Relieve tension and place belt back on new pulley.
--Replace back panel.
-Fini!