Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Rusted leveling foot
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
We removed the old part and replaced it then when warming the oven all of a sudden there was a loud noise and something went and so we called a repair man which I guess we should of done in the first place. Now he has ordered a part that cost 170 soo that is my story don't try to repair if you don't have experience.
There's an easy access panel on the back of the stove. I removed it and then it was a simple process to follow what was there to replace the switches. The only thing that caught me off guard was that you have to replace the switches in pairs which is what I noticed when I ordered the part.
Lenses wore down and broke off making the actual indicator lights fall down behind the control panel since the lights connect to the lens.
Pulled stove out and unplugged it. Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel. Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others. Replace back cover. Plug stove back in and slide back into place. There are you tube videos out there to help you.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
Turned off power at breaker, took back off range, removed red and blue wires, removed oven door, removed two screws holding in broil element, removed wires supporting old element, installed new element and reversed procedure.
Pulled out the cracked pieces with tweezers. The only really important thing is that the bottom tab of the replacement lens is the 'hooked' shape, whereas the straight tab goes ton top. Place the bottom tab in first, push to get the side tabs in, then the top tab snaps into place. Easy peasy.
