PLEF489ACA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

replaced it

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

Ordered a new Surface Burner Switch to replace the failed unit.
When I opened the burner lid, I could see the insulation on all the wiring for the burners had fallen apart and wiring was exposed. The wiring for all 4 burners was exposed as the insulation had deteriorated and fallen off over 80% of the circuits. It was just blind luck there was not a fire or an electrical failure on a grand scale. I replaced the wiring and burner connection assemblies as they also showed signs of age and deterioration.
Had the switch not gone bad, forcing me to look into the wiring assemble, there very likely would have been an electrical fire. In a 220 volt appliance, electrical fires are a lot more excitement than I need.

Scot Hooper
Keller Texas

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Easy as 1-2-3

First. shut off the power!!! Remove the two screws holding the coil. Next- slightly pull remaining wire to access the plugs. Unplug the wires, remove old coil, replace and plug in the new... Replace two screws.... Turn power on and....... Start cooking! EASY!

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

Gasket has pins that line up with tiny holes around the perimeter of door. Just pull the old gasket off, and snap new one ( with pins) in . Used the butter knife to push ends of gasket in hole at bottom of door. Took about 2 minutes to complete and looks AWESOME! simple. simple, simple! This company ships immediately and the product is described properly. I would buy from this company again!

used two flat bladed screw drivers to get under edge of switch.. pried one side up and unit popped loose... removed electric connection (three prong recep) and plugged in new switch ..pushed into hole and was done... approximately 3 minutes..

slid it in

Took a screwdriver and removed screws attaching the element to the back of oven. Disconnectec the wires from the old bake element. Replaced the new reversing the process. Very easy.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.