PFSS5NJXCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.

Unplugged fridge. Shut off the water supply valve under sink. Removed lower access panel at back of the refrigerator (six screws). Removed single green screw holding water valve bracket and pulled assembly out to access wiring and hoses. It is a dual valve as one valve is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. Disconnected the 2 electrical connectors (one for each valve). Unscrewed the compression fitting for the water inlet with 1/2 " wrench. Then the two water lines on the outlet which are quick disconnects. You must push the ring towards the valve and then the tubing can be pulled out by hand.

Reattach everything to the new valve and install and its ready to use.

Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.

I followed the video for my model refrigerator on parts select. My hint: when returning the back panel of the freezer, it's slightly adjustable left and right to avoid grazing the fan.

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

1.Google troubleshooting for this issue. Determine the inverter card was bad. Installed new card and correct jumper harness per instructions. Total time to troubleshoot, remove & replace was about 30_45 min. Pretty simple

First, turn off main water valve. Then, at the rear of refrigerator remove the rear panel exposing the water valve assembly. Cautiously, proceed by disconnecting the water hose and electrical connections. To complete the task, just worked in the reverse steps to exchange the faulty equipment.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

I started out replacing a bad thermostat, no problem,
when I hooked up the water, I found that the water resovior had a leak.
I replaced the resovior, easy fix, but I had to buy two 5/16 brass couplers.
then I found that the box would not get below 10 degrees, and the suction pressure was very low.
I figured that the fan motor was burned out, so I opened up the access covers, the fan motor was hanging there with broken mounts, so I replaced the motor, and repaired the mount.
Everything works great now, The parts shiping was very fast, I was impressed.
I thought I was going to get away without fixing everyones
HVAC problems when I retired.
Friends and family still remember that you are the HVAC man.
Tom

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

Replacement valve fit perfectly but didn't fix the problem. More troubleshooting found blockage through the water filter assy although I don't use a filter and just have the the bypass plug installed...7 years like this. Used compressed air to blow out the line and got some crud out. Works now but can't turn water pressure up full or line hammers and stops flow. Left supply valve open slightly which supplies ice maker fine and dispenser ok. Must be something wrong with internal spring stopper in filter assy...keeps water from pouring out if filter or bypass not installed.

1. remove back shield of fridge.
2. unscrew old valve.
3. remove electrical connections.
4. remove white inserts on new valve.
5. cut feed hoses next to old valve.
6. place white inserts on hoses.
7 insert hoses into recepticals on new valve.
8 shut off water supply to fridge.
9. remove water suply line from old valve.
10. attach water supply line to new valve.
11. connect electrical connections.
12. bolt valve back on to fridge
13. turn on water supply to fridge
14. test both ice maker and water dispensor
15. replace back shield to fridge

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

I thought it must be the water valve leaking by so I ordered one and put it on myself which was a very easy job. It fixed my problem and everything works fine now. First I unplugged the refrigerator shut off water line block shutoff valve. Then I removed the back plate on refiigerator. Then I removed the water line from the water valve. After that I unplugged the two wiring harnesses. Then I removed the two plastic water lines from water valve. then I inbolted the water valve from refrigerator. Then I got new valve, plugged both water lines into it, plugged both wiring harnesses back into it, hooked main water line back up then turned water back on.