PDW8600JB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simplest job ever. Ordered wheel and axles and when arrived pushed in the axle on the rear of the wheel and pushed onto the rack. Took less than one minute and working fine since.

Simple repair... Great Company, quick shipping (in CA had it the next day). Quality parts, GE OEM!! And to top it off the lowest prices!!

All I had to do is take out the rack, pop off the old wheels, place the new stud rollers on, then pop on the new wheels. So easy and now my dishes don't get chipped when I pull the rack out and push it back in. I wish I didn't wait so long to order new parts.

Pull old rack out, slip new one in!
One thing i did was order wheels and studs as i was unaware they lower rack came fully equiped with all wheels,studs, and flip up dish dividers. So if your replacing the rack no need to order the wheels! The diagram made it look as if you only et the wire rack and not all the added pieces.

ordered replacement parts and when they arrived i noticed they were a differant part # then what was ordered and a differant wheel axle design and wow i don't thing these will brake like the others thank you PARTSELECT

I removed the old wheels & studs on the right side of the bottom rack of the dishwasher, and I gleefully THREW THEM ALL OUT! HA HA!

Then I put the nice new rollers on the studs, and then I put them on the rack.

Helpful hints for others beleaguered by this design problem:

1) Be sure to get new studs - that's the part that kept causing the wheels to fall off

2) Put the rollers on the studs before putting them on the rack. (Another user on this site noted that, and it was very helpful).

3) P.S. Very prompt shipping, great service - I will definitely use this company again. And thanks to whoever dropped a cheerful Christmas candy into the box!!

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

tormented by the wheels falling off the lower rack in the dishwasher, had to lift it in and out when loading, then it would get hung up and not enter straight. a real pain in the @$%.
i was so happy to find parts select, and see that other people had the same problem. i ordered the new wheels and modified clip. shipping was really fast. took off the older ones and replaced them. when my husband came home and saw i fixed it myself, he was astonished. no more fighting the rack. smooth and better than new. thx parts select!!

Having ordered new axles and wheels, we easily took the old ones off and snapped on the new ones. Once we realized NOT to put the wheels on the axles before attaching them to the rack, the repair was super easy. Evidently GE had put inefficient axles on the original dishwaser and had subsequently redesigned them.

This worked great. Cheap and easy.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.

I gently removed the old gasket and replaced it with no problem. The part just pushes into a channel in the washer side.