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Models > PCSB330EC2WC > Instructions

PCSB330EC2WC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the PCSB330EC2WC
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Dryer started to thump and scrape
First and most important - safety. Either unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Remove the two screws to the top cover. To locate these screws just open the door as they are located at the top of the door opening. Remove screws and lift up the top cover and carefully pull towards you. Place to the side away from the work area. This now will expose two screws within the side panels holding the front door and front housing. Remove the two screws, lift up and out to remove front housing assemble. Be careful when you remove as the wiring to the light fixture is included. Just remove cover and place side ways close to the dryer.
Remove the bulb then remove the white plastic drum bearing (snaps out or in when replacing with a flat screwdriver).
Prior to installing the new drum bearing install the four white slide strips on top of the drum bearing. Review the old parts for comparison. These actually act as the bushings between the drum bearing and the clothes drum. Please keep in mind the slides do not come with the drum bearing when ordering. You must order seperately. Once the new assemble is snapped into the metal front cover/door now you can re-assemble. While you have the drum exposed it's a good time to check the belt for wear. Sometimes a worn or ripped belt can be the same symptom of the thumpimg sound. For the assemble just reverse all the earlier steps. Plug cord back in or turn on the circuit breaker and run the dryer. You should be good to go for more years of service.
Parts Used:
Front Drum Bearing DRYER FRONT BEARING WHITE 2PK
  • Mary from Poughkeepsie, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer was not heating at any level and it was making noise while rotating
First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.
Parts Used:
Front Drum Bearing
  • Robert from Louisville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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old screen was not sealing properly
Replaced new screen in place of old one.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame
  • Thomas from Wake Forest, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer Not Starting
First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Scott from Poughkeepsie, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken piece
Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.
Parts Used:
Dryer Lint Chute Assembly
  • Kevin from GALES FERRY, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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a lot
started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks
Parts Used:
Dryer Lint Chute Assembly
  • Craig from HOPKINS, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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BELT SQUEAKING
TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Al from CORP CHRISTI, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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broken dryer door handle
removed remaining handle pieces and simply snapped the new part in place. very simple,very easy.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Danny from DOVER, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Door handle broke
Snap off and then snap New one on.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Barbara from HAWLEY, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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My lint filter had a big hole in it. My dryer is 10+ years old.
All I had to do was remove the damaged filter and replace it with te new one. It could not ave been easier.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame
  • JUDITH from FRUITA, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Old lint filter had deteriorated
Removed old one, inserted new one in slot. Just have to be sure it's turned in the right direction.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame
  • Doug from INMAN, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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no handle
just replaced the unit handle and how my wife can open the dryer without a screwdriver
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • syd from wilmington, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Noisy Bearing "SWEEKING"
The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Russell P. from Dushore, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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dryer had a loud sqeaking noise
removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Barbara from Sugar Valley, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Screeching noise and black burn marks
I read the repairs that others had posted and how they did it. It was really easy. My only complaint is that I didn't know that I needed the slides that attached to the bearing and couldn't find them on the repair list. My dryer had a spot for 4 of them and only 1 was left. Otherwise, being a female, I felt great to be able to fix it myself! Thanks!
Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.
Parts Used:
Front Drum Bearing
  • Carol from Bristolville, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the PCSB330EC2WC
91 - 105 of 414