PCKS443EB0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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broken latch
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james from bainbridge island, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
15 of 28 people
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When my dryer would not come on.
The timer knob was stripped, so it was stuck in the off position. Ordered the "D"-shaped knob and just placed it on the connector and everything is working find.
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Sonya from COLUMBUS, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
9 of 10 people
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extremely loud continous noise when drying laundry
watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!
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wayne from waterloo, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
9 of 10 people
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door would not stay closed
It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks
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Dorothy from Kingston, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
12 of 22 people
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My dishwasher would not start.
I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!
Parts Used:
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Rebekah from NEW ORLEANS, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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tub wouldn't rotate,also motor wouldnt stay running
please unplug power cord for safety reasons, remove the 2 screws on the top back of the machine. this will allow for removal of the top lid. Next you will need to remove the cycle knob, then remove the panel cover on the front top of the Dryer, this is necessary to access the 2 screws on the front, these are Robertson head screws but a #2 Phillips will work. loosen both left and right screws note to not completely remove them. pick up on the front panel then lean the top forward. this will give ample room to install the new belt, once the belt is placed over the tub you can reassemble the front panel, cover, and knob. on the back of the dryer towards the bottom there are 2 more #2 phillip screws that need to be removed to get to the tensioner, pull the belt down and around the tensioner and then around the pulley of the drive motor, rotate the drum a few times to ensure the belt is aligned properly with the motor pulley then replace the rear cover tighten all screws. Plug in the dryer and give it a test drive to make sure the belt was the only issue
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John from MILFORD, DE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
7 of 8 people
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noisy operation
removed cabinet
removed drum
dismanteled blower assy
found a tooth brush in the assy.
replace blower wheel
checked timer and heating elements
reassembeled
advised my wife of the problem
removed drum
dismanteled blower assy
found a tooth brush in the assy.
replace blower wheel
checked timer and heating elements
reassembeled
advised my wife of the problem
Parts Used:
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JOHN from CHARLOTTE, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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Dishwasher wouldn’t start
Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed
Parts Used:
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Stephen from MARENGO, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 10 people
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Dishwasher would not start
Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
Parts Used:
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Dameon from SMYRNA, DE
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 7 people
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Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
Parts Used:
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STAN from UPPER ARLNGTN, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
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dishwasher did not start
Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.
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Lawrence from ROLESVILLE, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
7 of 13 people
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old bearing completley gone; shaft eating through race making a horrible noise when running
pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.
Parts Used:
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greg from abilene, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Probably due to age and heat of the dryer,the top of the slide broke.
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Joel from LAKE WORTH, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people
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Dryer was making a loud noise while running
Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.
Parts Used:
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Carlton from Bedford, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Very loud squeak with drum rotation
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Parts Used:
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William from San Juan, TX
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench set
2 of 2 people
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