MSD2552VEA01 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched the website repair & adjustment video, ordered the part which was exactly like the one currently in the fridge. Took only 10 min. to install. Then, 2 hours later we had ice! And still have ice on a consitent basis. Easy fix, life's good!

Very easy. Your online video was agreat help.

removed 3 screws and power wire clip, removed old ice maker, reinstalled new ice make by snaping in power wire clip and the 3 screws that hold ice maker, reinstalled wire bracket/arm that stops ice maker once tray is full of ice. done

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Just replaced the broken one without using any tools.

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

Removed front plastic grill and screws holding the filter in place. Also removed lower back cardboard panel to access water lines. Video on this website told me how to remove water lines from filter, you must depress a collar around the water line while pulling out the water line. Then install the new Water Filter Housing and water lines. The only problems I had was the tight space to work in and one of the water lines was leaking, but pushing the water line in further solved the problem.

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.

First, verified power supply. I have power at wall outlet, no power at compressor. Also noticed no condenser fan operation. Searched YouTube and watched a few diagnostic videos of how to test for proper operation of my model. Dropped the control panel down to reveal the thermostat switch and control board. Wiggled thermostat knob and compressor would work intermittently. Thermostat bad internally. Removed wiring connections, removed cover over temp.probe. slowly removed capillary tube. Removed plastic sheath from tube. Take your time installing new capillary tube into plastic sheath as not to kink and damage tube. Route the new tube back into position that the old one was in. Reinstall covers. NOTE: My wiring terminals on the new switch were in different locations but the switch was the same dimensions. I used a multi-meter to determine the correct wire locations on new switch and installed. Reconnected power and all works well now.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..