MLR4410CXT Maytag Range - Instructions

The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.

Turned off water supply and electricity. Removed old valve by removing two 1/4 in nut screws and water supply line and the ice maker suppy line. Disconnected the electrical line.Reattached water supply line,the icemaker supply line and the electrical connector. Put valve back into refrigerator and attached the two 1/4 in nut screw. Turned on water supply and electricity. Bled water thru system and now have plenty of ice.

seamed easy enough. Found the part and it looked identical, However I could not see the connector in the picture because the logo covered that part of the picture. Had to cut the connector off the old igniter and crimp it on to the new ingniter.

Replaced gas oven ignitor

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

Removed bottom tray in oven, used nut driver to remove igniter, pulled oven out from wall and unplugged cord, did steps in reverse and repair was done. Very good tip on what was wrong with oven and how to diagnose the problem. I will defintly use your tips and purchase parts from you in the future if the need arises.

We hired the neighborhood handy man, and he was able to repair the oven in about 15 minutes. I order the part and received it the next day. Excellent Service!!

My stove would take forever to preheat and sometimes it wouldn't heat above 175. I order a new igniter, which was located under the drip pan . It took less then ten mins to replace and the stove is working like new.

Changed the igniter

Remove oven floor and bottom drawer
remove 2 1/4-inch screws holding ignitor
remove cover plate behind drawer to access P/J
Disconnect plug remove ignitor and reassemble

Did not have gas smell, but ignition took 6 minutes

Make sure the knobs are all in the off position before starting the work. You may feel more comfortable shutting the gas valve off behind the stove or in the basement first, just make sure you fire the burner and let the gas that is left in the line burn off.
Remove bottom pan in oven by sliding the pins (located in the back) towards you and picking up the back of the pan and pull it away from you, this will slide the pan off of the other 2 pins that you can not see on your end of the pan. Take the flare shield off from over top of the gas line (should be 2 nuts or 1 wing nut). Remove the screw or screws that hold the heat shield covering the ignitor wires and remove the heat shield. Unplug the ignitor. remove the screws holding the ignitor and remove it. Be sure to order the ignitor with the extra shield and make sure it has new screws, you may need to replace the screws. Try not to touch the element of the ignitor. it can be very brittle. It seems lengthy but is very quick and simple.

First I called a local repair shop and after getting a 325.00 repair estimate I looked up your website and discovered that I could purchase the part for 46.00 dollars and followed the do it yourselfers imput Now thats what I call a savings

Once I got the new Igniter, I unplugged the old igniter and took two bolts out. Then remounted the new igniter and plugged it in. Works like a charm!!

I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .