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MLR4410CXT Maytag Range - Overview

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Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil – Part Number: 74007498
$55.29
In Stock
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
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(52)
Part #74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad.
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon) – Part Number: W11665456
$23.60
In Stock
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #W11665456
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work the same. Install the new leveling leg, and test if you have it adjusted properly by putting the appliance on four legs. Adjust in or out as required if your oven is rocking. It is recommended to check the other three leveling legs on your appliance in case they are also damaged or worn. The leveling leg measures 1.859", is all black in color, and is made entirely out of plastic. This leg may be shorter than the original but is the factory replacement. Longer leg is not available.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Range Surface Burner Spark Igniter – Part Number: WP8523793
$35.80
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Spark Igniter
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★★★★★
(9)
Part #WP8523793
Is your oven not cooling like it used to? You might need a new blower, a crucial component that circulates air to safeguard controls, wiring, and other parts from overheating. We understand how important it is to keep your oven in top shape, and that's where the genuine OEM Whirlpool Blower comes in. Specially designed for wall oven installations, it helps bring your oven back to peak performance, ensuring effective and efficient cooling. This blower isn?t just for Whirlpool appliances?it's the perfect match for a wide array of models from KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef too. But remember, ovens can have subtle differences, so it's a good idea to match the part to your model's specifications. This way, you can be confident it?s the perfect fit for your oven's needs. Installing your new blower requires a little care. Please disconnect the power first because safety should always come first. And don?t forget to wear work gloves to protect your hands. So, ready for your oven to cool like it's brand new again? Choose the genuine OEM Whirlpool Blower, the key to maintaining a safe, balanced temperature within your oven while extending its longevity.
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit – Part Number: 4318047
$47.40
In Stock
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit
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(16)
Part #4318047
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold. The kit includes the mounting hardware and bracket plastic tubing fittings. The retaining nut must be cut off the plastic water line and gently pushed into the new valve. To remove, press down on the ring that the tube slides into. Refer to the installation instructions for further guidance. Please note: the manufacturer has redesigned this part and it can appear different than the original. It has a new quick connection.
Range Screw – Part Number: WP179051
$7.47
On Order
Range Screw
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(5)
Part #WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure an electrical connection is not lost.
Door Seal – Part Number: WP7212P043-60
$53.20
In Stock
Door Seal
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(8)
Part #WP7212P043-60
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the range doors for the most effective performance. This seal is black in color and is made of rubber. If your oven is not heating evenly, has little to no heat when baking, or is too hot, replacing the seal can solve the problem. The tools needed for this repair are needle nose pliers. Make sure the oven is cool before starting this installation project. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
Range Screw – Part Number: WPY706189
$7.47
In Stock
Range Anti-Tip Bracket – Part Number: WP3801F656-51
$8.55
In Stock
Range Anti-Tip Bracket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$8.55
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WP98008545
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP98008545
Sold Individually.
Surface Burner Head – Part Number: WP7504P109-60
No Longer Available
Surface Burner Head
Part #WP7504P109-60
Sold individually.

Common Symptoms of the MLR4410CXT

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berwick, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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no water getting to ice maker
80 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Boston, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai r in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
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Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
67 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Yorkville, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this o ne. $40.00 beats $700.00
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