MFF2055YEB02 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the old ones out and replaced with the new ones.

It was not complicated but it took more squeezing and reaching into the narrow space than actually removing three screws and unplugging the electrical harness. But that was all that was necessary, to install, three screws held the unit in place and re-connect the electrical harness. It saved me about $100 in labor and the inconvenience of scheduling a service call and waiting for a week or so. The best part was that I ordered the unit on line on Tuesday eveining and it was at my home by Friday afternoon with no extra shipping charges. Great service!.

Removed the door, removed the tray, removed the back bar(slipped the female cover off 1 side), removed the left slide, installed the new slide, installed the back bar, slipped in the drawer, popped the anchor back in the door with glue, installed the door and POW, it's done.

Replaced inlet valve.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

YouTube helped ,diagnosed problem ,found defective part removed and replaced with new part.
Is a little job on your knees

Removed 2 screws holding cover (one on left; one behind air filter on rear wall), removed cover, removed styrofoam duct, unplugged and removed old damper. The styrofoam duct broke slightly during the removal process. This was easily fixed with some 3M spray adhesive. While the adhesive dried, I packed the air passage between the fridge & freezer with paper towels to help the fridge cycle a bit (this worked surprisingly well). After finally installing the new damper and repaired styrofoam duct, the fridge went right back to freezing the food again (I soon realized this was caused by a VERY SMALL air leak where the new damper mates with the flange located on the freezer). After making a gasket with some self adhesive1/8" thick weatherstripping and applying it to the damper, things are back to normal operation.

I determined that the ice cube maker was no longer heating the cubes so they could be released into the ice tray. After ordering a new unit, taking out four screws and disconnecting the quick disconnect of wires I plugged the new one in and we were back in business.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

This was a snap. Loosened 3 screws, removed
old ice maker. Made cutout for water chute. Plugged in
wiring harness plug. Installed new ice maker. Tightened 3 screws.

These brain surgeons that charge $80.00 just to show up at my house to repair an appliance are history.

I replaced the old icemaker with a new one but the problem is still occurring in the new one. It only fill with enough water to make about two ice cubes

Followed online instructions. UnPlug and Plug in new part

We removed three screws, unplugged the wire and then removed the old ice maker. Installed the new ice maker with the screws, plugged in the wire and shortly after that we had ice! I was nervous about this repair but it was so easy and the part was here in three days.

Took it out of the box. Emptied the ice out of the broken bin. Slid the new one in and all done.