MFC2062DEM01 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Used a deep well 1/4" nut driver. Loosen 4 screws on inside of door and slip it up and off rack. Remove 2 screws on bottom of ice maker. Loosen top 2. Slip up of screws, unplug ice maker and remove.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.

First, make sure you have the correct part. I had trouble with mine, at first, until I realized that I had received the wrong part... it was same shape but larger. To begin, remove both fruit/vegetable drawers. Remove deli drawer. Remove deli drawer glass panel with both supports. Remove 3, 1/4" hex screws that attach end-cap. Disengage temp control slide and arm from end-cap by carefully moving parts in the direction where they will disengage. Remove temp control slide from end-cap. Now that end-cap is out, remove 2 screws that hold metal drawer slide to end-cap. Attach drawer slide to new end-cap. Attach temp contol slide and connect the plastic arm. Attach end-cap to refrigerator. Replace glass shelf, supports and drawers. Done.

Followed your instructions: gasket came coiled in the box and was slightly curled up. Both left & right side of gasket were linked. Followed your instructions to properly restore the shape. Pulling the old gasket off and installing the new one took just a few minutes

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Replaced the left side endcap for the drawer. Three screws and it popped out. Easy process once I actually looked at it. Drawer cover now works as designed. Replaced inline water filter. Not problem there.

Remove crispers & bottom drawer. Removed glass piece. Unscrewed piece( small nuts not screw heads) There is also a nubbie at front. You must remove by sliding out & lifting back of part. Reuse screws to replace piece & drawer runner. It took 15 to 20 minutes. I am all thumbs. If I can do anyone can do!

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

we removed all the lower stuff,so we could get to the part.
unscrewed all pieces 3 screws
than removed it all in order..
than the hard part came ,when we had to figure out how to remove all the moving parts.from the back ..after a little wiggling we figured it all out and got a part...the new piece in and all back together...my husband and i did it in about 45 minutes,,,also gave us a chance to get those really hard places in the back to clean...thanks for all your help in helping me id the part..
thanks
linda landsdowne

Took out the bottom drawer, removed one hexhead nut on the unit, unplugged the unit, plugged in the replacement unit, screwed in the hexhead screw, replaced the drawer, that's it! Very user friendly.

Top bottom then sides took about 15 min

This kind of repair makes me love the internet. Thank you. Follow advice of my fellow posters but beware, all your plastic parts are very brittle from the cold. Proceed slowly. As mentioned by others but worth stressing is...do resist the temptation to force any piece...I could just see myself snapping one of these pieces and having to order another part! Take your time to work out the sequence to disengage each piece in turn. It's a bit of a puzzle but take your time. Also suggest starting the job with a nice bowl of warm baking-soda water to gently and effectively clean everything as you go.

After watching a couple of YouTube videos I had an idea of what to expect. It is really easy. Simply pull out the old, clean up the track and press in the new. I used a heat gun to eliminate the wrinkles in the material. A hair dryer would work as well.