MFB2055YEB00 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the old ones out and replaced with the new ones.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Removed 2 screws holding cover (one on left; one behind air filter on rear wall), removed cover, removed styrofoam duct, unplugged and removed old damper. The styrofoam duct broke slightly during the removal process. This was easily fixed with some 3M spray adhesive. While the adhesive dried, I packed the air passage between the fridge & freezer with paper towels to help the fridge cycle a bit (this worked surprisingly well). After finally installing the new damper and repaired styrofoam duct, the fridge went right back to freezing the food again (I soon realized this was caused by a VERY SMALL air leak where the new damper mates with the flange located on the freezer). After making a gasket with some self adhesive1/8" thick weatherstripping and applying it to the damper, things are back to normal operation.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

First, made sure new fan worked then Placed back in bracket with bushings-only goes in one way, pushed fan back on. screwed bracket to back of freezer and ran the wires to their original place, plugged in the two plugs, put the back piece up attaching ground and pulling ice maker plug thru, screwed back on. Plugged in ice maker, mounted ice maker on freezer wall. Plugged it in. Exact reversal of how it was removed. Not a lot parts to get confused.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Removed the door, removed the tray, removed the back bar(slipped the female cover off 1 side), removed the left slide, installed the new slide, installed the back bar, slipped in the drawer, popped the anchor back in the door with glue, installed the door and POW, it's done.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Followed instructions on your website

Used u-tube video to review steps in making repair. Wires shorter than described but after looking at replacement sockets difference was clear.

My son said it was easy to put in the motor I didn’t need the fan my fan was in good shape yet thank you so much for everything

The holder is held in place with two screws. Once you have it unscrewed you can snap the old sockets out and replace them.

Ordered new sockets and presto, the lights work again.
They just snapped into the holder and the holder went up with two screws.
HINT: I did take a photo of the 4 electrical connectors AND labeled each one with a Sharpie 1, 2, 3, and 4 from left to right.