MDB9150AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I didn't know how to put in the new one clips until I looked up a picture of them in place, on-line. Once I saw the picture, it was a matter of clipping the new ones in place.

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!

Basket Replacement very simple just remove old and set new basket in place

I reversed the tub wheel, cut off the protruding flanges so that the end of the axel pin was exposed. Then using a small socket I placed a split washer over the end of the pin, used the socket to hold the washer in place and tapped it into place with a hammer. Note there is a grove around the circumference of the pin which holds the split washer. This locked the tub wheel onto the pin and it still rolled freely. Unconventional but it worked great.

New pump housing filter was needed as the old one was plugged and distorted.

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Turned off power to the washer. Removed the inside door cover. Removed the old board, carefully noting wire connections. (Take a photo of old board at the beginning, if you feel insecure about this.) Installed new board, carefully plugging wire connectors as they had been on old board. Replaced inside door cover. Restored power to washer. Conducted a test run. THE WASHER WORKS!!
By the way, I received the new board two days after ordering it. Now, that's service!

I discovered that, except for the central tower, all the spray holes were all plugged with I took to be calcium deposites . Using the parts diagram located on this web site, I removed parts. All parts can be removed either by hand, nutdriver or small wrench however you do need a star drive (simliar to an allen wrench) to remove the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter. The Lower Spray Arm unsnaps from the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter. I laboriously removed the deposits from each part down as far as the support filter. The upper spray arm can be removed by unsnapping the hub. the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter is a closed unit so. I purchased a new one. The process is very labor intensive. Next time I am going to consider purchasing all new parts or calling a repair man.

Removed top retaining piece by turning clockwise to remove spinning spray arm from bottom assembly. Removed the 6 retaining screws from the primary screen pump cover and lifted up. Removed filter and the four pronged piece that spins with the filter. Removed the 3 hex head screws that held the secondary filter assembly & pump cover in place. Removed center screw that held the bottom black plastic piece just above the secondary filter bottom. Inspected the cutter, then started reassembly in reverse for the replacement of new parts and filters.

Replaced with the new basket. However, the part had been replaced, and I do not like the new setup. One basket has been replace with 2 that are hooked together. Each basket has a cover, but it covers the whole side, not just a part. In my old basket, I had a part of the basket with a cover that could hold plastic lids and measuring spoons that can easily wash out of the basket and hit the heating element on the bottom. My "fix" was to remove both lids and use the lid from the old basket to cover one part of the new basket. It's not very satisfactory, as it is not hinged and had to be removed and tucked in each time!

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.

Ordered BOTH the front and rear tines as the front tine showed some superficial rust through the plastic covering in a couple of spots. Re-used the tine holders which were still solid condition and flexible. Snapped bowl holder tine unit out of dishwasher, snapped new tines in place, snapped unit back in dishwasher. Took 5 minutes or less. All other parts of the dishwasher rack were still in excellent condition with no cracked spots on the vinyl covering or rusted spots visible anwhere.

unscrew screen and cover and unbolt impeller replace with new parts. everything goes back together easily, anyone with even minimal repair skills should be able to do this repair.

Shut off the water and electric then removed the cover at the bottom then removed the water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. Turned on water and electric. Replaced cover at bottom. Very easy and the part was shipped quickly. No problems and the dishwaser works great now!!

I simply looked at the other side (which was still functioning) and put the new one on but in reverse (left side/right side) I also was missing the end stop to the slide and simply popped that in and snapped closed. Two simple parts and 15 mins. solved a whole lot of aggrivation,
without any aggravation! wish I had found this site sooner!

Snapped old ones off and snapped new ones on.