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MDB7600AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7600AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7600AWB
46-60 of 1,921
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grinding noise during cycle

  • Customer: rich from liberty twp, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

Door leaks

  • Customer: ROY from SUFFOLK, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the door seal. Removed the old seal and gently stretched the new seal and pushed it into the channel. Snipped off about 2 inches excess seal. As far as the Inner Door Foam Insulation Strip goes, it was not as easy. To begin with, the old Foam Strip was attached to the door insulation and not the door. The attempt to remove the old Foam Strip from the insulation became cumbersome, so I just attached the new Foam Strip on top of the old Foam Strip. So far, after a few cycles, it appears that it corrected the leak.

A mouse had chewed on the inlet cover to the point that it would no longer stay in it's hole.

  • Customer: Melissa from Wales, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

Broken lower rack adjuster

  • Customer: Robert from Middletown, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This is a very common problem with this model. However, in addition to this part, you also need the following part numbers (which are not listed for this model):
PS920544 - Lever Adjuster
PS893981 - Cover, Rack Adjuster

The updated RACK ADJUSTER ASSY part did not match up to the other parts in my dishwasher. But, after I found a diagram for another dishwasher model that showed the above two parts as well, I ordered them in hopes that they would work for mine. They worked like a charm, and the design of the new updated part is much better than the original part (which, if you take a look at epinions.com, breaks on just about every machine).

I hope this helps someone out ... I was close to ditching our 1.5 year old dishwasher and buying a new one!

Broken Dishwasher Door Latch - Assembly Replacement

  • Customer: Gail from Sharpsburg, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Being a fairly technical female, I decided after Internet research to replace this part by myself. It could not have been easier - even after reading several Internet horror stories. I believe the major difference being I replaced the entire assembly, not simply the latch.

You need a hex-head allen wrench to remove the inside cover of the dishwasher door, and some sort of pliers to remove the old unit. I used vice grips since I am a wimpy girl - they worked nicely (this took the longest time).

Step by Step:

Turn off the power to your dishwasher.

Remove the door screws and carefully lift it to access the door latch assembly.

Remove the old door latch by unplugging the black and white electrical mechanism. Pay close attention to which side the black and white connections are removed from for reconnection reasons. This is where I had to use vice grips. It took a bit to "unplug" the old latch assembly.

Once the old latch assembly is removed, position the new latch assembly and reconnect the electrical source.

Carefully reposition the door and replace the screws.

Turn on the power.

Run a short cycle (I used rinse) to make sure that the unit was replaced correctly.

Can it be any easier than that??

The basket in our dishwasher had many broken parts on the bottom and the silverware kept falling through

  • Customer: Marge from Cranford, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
We were happy to find the basket we needed listed on your website, even after we could not find it on the Maytag site. It was perfect. I can't believe we lasted almost 2 years with the broken basket we had.

broken door springs

  • Customer: jeffrey from holland, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

The dishwasher would not drain

  • Customer: Brian from Keokuk, IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.

door would not stay shut

  • Customer: John from Boise, ID
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
-Remove all torx screws on door (2 min).
-unplug switch's (10 min) I used a small curved awl for this, there is a small nub that goes into the connector that needs popped off to release. I got the first switch in a few seconds, the second took several minutes.
-plugged in new switches and replaced torx screws (2 min.)
-another job well done.
The pictures on the web site were not accurate. I thought i needed the Latch assembly and the latch assymbly (Bisque)M. The Latch assembly Bisque had everything that the Latch assembly had plus the handle (and it cost like $8 less. So I had to return the Latch Assembly. Hopefully I made that clear I saw similar info when I was making my purchase but it was not clear so I ended up ordering more than what I needed.

Water leaking from bottom of dishwasher at motor.

  • Customer: Jack from Lee's Summit, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

Latch Handle was broken from inside

  • Customer: Richard from Franklin, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
1st: Unscrewed the inside of the door (actually hex screwdriver needed).
2nd: Removed broken part (one side of handle latch (which is plastic) was broken.
3rd. Had to disconnect two electrodes that were attached to the part that held the handle (there are two small prongs that you need to push back to remove these)
4th. In order to place the handle on the groove, you need to pull apart the bottom of the housing piece (it looks like it would be a hinge, but you just pull it apart)
NOTE: Make sure you have another person hold the top portion when you pull this apart because it has a spring and will come completly apart. This happened to us and it was a pain to get it back together.
5th: place the smaller "clamps" plastic pieces in the grove and then it should slide down into the groove, which will also seat the outer "plastic clamps" into the grooves.
NOTE: It seems like the repair part was built to reinforce this part of the handle, since this was the part that broke before. It is now reinforced with a little metal rod on each side.
6th: After all that, you need to place the two electrodes back on the piece.
7th: Hold it in place and put the inside of the door back on (start a screw on one side and then go to the opposite side. This will help to align the screw holes).
8th: After I put it all back together, I turned it on to make sure it worked ok.

Broken handle/latch Dishwasher was very difficult to open.

  • Customer: George from Andover, KS
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

latch handle, tabs, & inside of outer door tabs broke

  • Customer: Brian from Winter Springs, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
1st, shut off the breaker for the dishwasher.
2nd, opened the door and removed all of the torx screws holding inner door to outer door.
3rd, placed inner door up and held it out of the way (closed inner door through/around latch tab and folded up a piece of paper, threaded it through latch tab hole and placed a small piece of masking tape around the paper to hold door out of the way - this made the entire job easier, because you do not need to hold the door out of the way anymore).
4th, removed broken latch/handle assembly (carefully - it is always a good idea to collect/save broken pieces to piece together the "puzzle" in case you need to improvise. Removing the metal clip attachments is tough, but much easier now that the inner door is secured out of the way. They cannot simply be pulled straight out. You should use a gentle back and forth wiggle motion in a T-shape. Meaning, wiggle back and forth 1-way, and then the other way (perpendicular to the first way) - this should get them separated. Be patient with this procedure - it will work fine and you won't get frustrated.
5th, look at the situation to determine exactly what went wrong/broke specifically (I was extra screwed, because 1/2 of each of the "U" shaped tabs that hold each side of latch assembly in place were broken - as well as the tabs on the latch assembly. These U-shaped tabs were/are actually part of the plastic outer door. Specifically, they are on the inner side of the plastic control panel display. I could have replaced this part too, but I was trying to do as inexpensive a repair as possible.
6th, So - I found 2 nut/bolts in my toolbox (probably 1/8" in diameter - 3/4" in length - I used flat head. Be careful in your selection of bolt length - the least amount sticking out the front of the dishwasher - the better). I drilled 2 holes - in the exact location where these inner door tabs broke off - and entirely through to the outside of the outer door - yes, all the way through. We are talking about drilling through less than 1/4" of plastic - simple. I made sure that I would not be drilling through any lighting display or really important pieces. The holes ended up being situated in plain plastic locations - not interfering with any functions. Be careful in your selection of drill bit size - you want the bolt to fit through the hole obviously, but you don't want the bolt to have too much wiggle room - because it will be functioning as your new tab - that should have as much structural integrity. So, I recommend drilling a hole that is just big enough that you have to use a screwdriver to thread the bolt into the hole.
7th - I connected the clips into the new latch assembly - somewhat easier than separating the old one.
8th - I placed the new latch/handle assembly into its proper location (resting on the 1/2 mounting tabs that remained on the inner door).
9th - I then used a small flat screwdriver to thread the 2 screws in place (yes, screw head on the inside of the door - to function as a tab - the edge of the screw head will hold down on the latch tab ends). I had to tilt the latch assembly forward, to allow just enough clearance to get my small, thin flat head screwdriver in there (on a slight angle, but that's ok). Thread it through until it gently snugs down onto the latch tab.
***You can do better than I did if you want to go the extra mile*** Find a small, thin piece of sheet metal or plastic. Drill a hole just big enough for the bolt threads to slide through. This sheet should be cut to the following specs: a rectangular shape just big enough to span across the tab you made with the bolt - onto the inner door tab that it still not broken (the drilled hole to fit the bolt threads through on one end). It is added structural integrity to even better hold the new latch assembly in place. Think of it as a bridge that spans the tops of the U-tabs.
10th - After screwing the bolts through until just enough to snug down on the latch assem

The vinyl coating on the forward rack of convertible tines dried and cracked away, allowing the steel underneath to rust and deteriorate. It eventually just broke.

  • Customer: Donna from Grand Ledge, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
After looking the situation over, I decided to remove the entire lower rack and place it on the counter where I could see better. I specified I needed the front tine (part # 24), but received both front and back tines). I used the screwdriver to help slip the old piece out of the plastic clamp end. I broke the end of the first clamp, but fortunately, replacement clamps were also included in the kit. I decided it would be easier to assemble the tines and the clamps first, and then install that into the rack, so I had to remove the other plastic clamp and did so successfully. Then holding the assemblage in place to see just where to snap it into place, I proceeded one clamp at a time and installed it. I kept the new back tine guide just in case someday that one wears out too.

Latch Handle Broken

  • Customer: Edward from Fredericksburg, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was very easy. First, I opened the dishwasher, removed the screws (they are torx) and removed the old handle assembly. I removed the inner liner from the door, and to do that I had to pull out the electrical wires. I turned off the power, always a good idea. I should have marked the polarity on the plugs before removing them, since you can put them back on wrong (and I did).

I also used caulk to hold the assembly on the bottom, since the cheap plastic molded forks holding the assembly on had broken. Most of the holding force comes from screws at the top. The caulk provides just a little adhesion, and will be easy to remove if the handle should need to be removed again--which I consider unlikely.
All Instructions for the MDB7600AWB
46-60 of 1,921