MAT13PDAAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue

I tipped the washing machine (somewhat tricky since it sits under the dryer) and saw the broken belt. Went online, found the belt I needed, bought the set of two belts since I figured it would probably be a good idea to change both belts at the same time. After a few days I had the belts in hand; it took more time to jockey the machine back into place than it did to attach the belts. No tools necessary; the washer parts are on a spring. I did need a screwdriver, however, just to re-attach the washer's front panel.

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.

My washer was sitting in a safety drain pan which made it difficult to work on due to the height of the pan walls. Managed to tilt it back and support on blocks well enough to access underside. Found two of the four leveling feet had fallen off, which was the ultimate cause of the problems from the cumulative effect of running unbalanced over time. Reinstalled these feet and had to remove rust to do so. I added two more nuts to the front feet to hold the adjustment tight. After adjusting to level, washer ran great and was no longer prone to unbalance. Procedure: Remove front panel- two lower screws and pry/pull off. Remove hoses at pump. Remove 3 mounting screws from pump. Remove belt from pump pulley. Push motor towards center of washer to release tension from other belt, and remove belt. Replace with new belt. Replaced old drain hose to pump and replaced all hose clamps with new. Install pump, replace pump belt. Level the washer. Replace front panel. Take the opportunity while the washer is open to clean out the dust from inside!

Disconnected the hoses , power cord, and the drain hose. Tipped the washer on it's front panel and removed the old belt and spun the new one on. Tested for tightness as per the instructions and sat the washer up and hooked everything up. Total time---5-10 minutes.
Local appliance dealer insisted this wasn't the belt we needed. Thanks to your website we easily selected the right one. Thanks.

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

Removed front door from washer lifted front of washer off floor and removed belt’s put washer back on floor
Removed motor and slide
Cleaned and replaced slides and greased put back in washer secured
Then lifted front of washer back up replaced new belts and started the washer up worked great put front of washer back on done
Great instructions that came with parts

1. Remove front panel with phillips screw driver.

2. Remove hose from drum and exit pump

3. replace hose with new one (used some silicone grease on hose)

4. Tightened clamps with nut driver

5. ran a couple loads of wash to check for leaks

6. found none

7. replaced front panel - Job done

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the belts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.