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Models > MAT12PRAEW > Instructions

MAT12PRAEW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MAT12PRAEW
106 - 120 of 151
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Washer would no longer drain the tub
Emptied washing machine tub with a small plastic bowl into a 5 gallon bucket, finihsing up last bit of water by soaking it up with towels. I next removed front panel on washing machine by unscrewing two screws on the bottom front, left and right, to gain access to the pump. Loosened two hose clamps and detached two hoses, catching remining water from washertub. moved washer out from wall about 3 feet and tilted washer back towards wall so I could access the inderneath of washer to lossen three bolts that held pump in place. removed belt from pum to motor and examined fro glaze or wear (none detected) and then removed pum and reversed steps to install new pump, reinstalling belt faily loosly, per instructions. Tried washer to see if ssue resolved and once confirmed, replaced the front panel. Have done multiple washes since then (at least 10) and no further issues. Very economical solution (under $100) and sense of pride with fixing applianmce myself. This web page was very informative and saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks!
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Robert from Anna, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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wash but not spin during spin mode
Follow the instruction from Partselect video. Strongly suggest to get all the tools ready, before you start.
Parts Used:
Tub Bearing Kit
  • tam from San Francisco, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The washer began leaking which indicated a problem.
I followed the instructions from the video on the site. It went more difficult than the video showed but it was due to the washer. The instructions were very good. The only really difficult step was taking the bearing sleeve off of the transmission shaft. I ended up with a Dremmel tool and cutting it off. It only took 5 minutes, if that long. The washer has run very well since the repair.
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit Tub Bearing Kit
  • Kevin from Youngsville, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Tub was always going out of balance even when level
Put the parts on as described in your on-line videos. Was never able to get the metal sleeve off the old machine while installing the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. I didn't want to cut the sleeve for fear that I wouldn't be able to install the new one and ruin the machine. Video needs to address that issue more fully. Chances are that if these parts need replaced, then the sleeve will be as tight as ours - they won't just slide off like the video shows.
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit Tub Bearing Kit
  • Jeffrey from Gloucester, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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water would not drain in washer tub, clothes were still very wet. starting with the hose
Moved washer away from wall. Removed rear panel (4 screws). removed hose bracket (1 screw). use vicegrip to "open" hose spring clamp. Removed old hose, slipped spring hose clamp over new hose. "Opened" spring hose clamp put new hose over washer drain, released vicegrip. Assemble in reverse.
Parts Used:
Corrugated Drain Hose
  • Leo from Seaside, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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replaced water pump
The water pulley wheel kept seperating from the pulley shaft after numberous attempts with plumbers glue, the problem kept repeating therefor replacement was necessary. After ordering the part it was able to be replaced with the new pump and fast, washer running like new. Thank you so much.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Tanya from Clintwood, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Drain Pump Leaking
1. Removed the front panel from the washing machine. This entailed removing two phillips head screws on the bottom left and right of the panel. Then, I pulled the bottom of the panel out and up until the top of the panel was disengaged from the machine. 2. Noted the belt tension on the old pump so I could install the new one correctly with the same tension. 3. Removed the two hoses from the pump, and the three screws securing the pump to the washer. 4. Installed the new pump providing the belt the same tension as I observed on the old pump. 5. Installed the hoses and tightened the hose clamps. 6. Reistalled the front panel and ran the washer. Works fine!
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Michael from Carlyle, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The drain pump was flinging water out when it was draining.
I took the front panel off and was able to easily access and remove the leaking drain pump. Then I propped the front of the washer up onto some boards so that I could put the two pulleys back onto the new pump, then I just tightened the three bolts in order to tighten the pulleys. However,when I started another load of wash there was a leak in the bottom of the tub, so I removed the new pump and went out and bought a new washer, figuring that our 13-year-old Maytag was going to cost more to fix than to buy a new washer. Then I wrapped up the new pump and sent it back. Thanks for all your help and for letting me send back the new part...I received confirmation of my refund today. Bob Trautman
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Robert A from Palmetto, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water never drained from washer
I removed 2 Philips head screws from bottom of front cover and removed cover. Tilted washer back and installed a 6' wooden block under washer. removed 3 hex head screws from pump base using my flex shaft nut driver and a 5/16" socket. Removed the 2 hose clamps from pump and lifted pump out. Pump appeared to be ok but checking by turning the pulley I found the impeller did not turn, shaft key must be sheared. The new pump came the next day at 2:00 PM and it was an exact replacement. Installed and up and running in about 15 min. Working fine.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • John H. from Lonaconing, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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washer would not drain
Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Brian from Lima, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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The washer machine would fill with water but the timer would not advance
I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Abdullah from VALLEY CENTER, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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leaking from bottom of washer
I removed the agitator, retainer nut, inner bin, old seal, and outer tub. To me it was important to clean all perts thoroughly for which I used an SOS pad and scraper which probably took me a little longer than average but I thought it was worth it to prevent doing this job all over again. Then I reversed the process.I do not have the special spanner wrench so I used a hammer and punch tool to loosen and tighten the seal and retainer nut. I also bypassed the injector valve since it was leaking as well and my washer is working fine.
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
  • Alfonso from Las Vegas, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water was leaking from the bottom of machine
After watching the repair on the video, I was confident that I could complete this job. The only tool I did not have was the special wrench for the retaining nut. I would recommend changing out the Bearing along with the seal. Due to the proximity of the seal, the bearing will most likely fail about the same time. The inner and outer tubs in my machine needed a thorough cleaning unlike the pre-cleaned demonstration washer in the video. A cheap plastic putty knife was great tool to scrape off the 14 years of detergent and lime sludge on the tubs. Allow yourself additional time to get everything clean as you disassemble the washer. The only snag I ran into was removing the corroded aluminum retaining nut. A cold chisel and hammer cut it off without much problem and a new nut was supplied with the kit. My old Maytag washer is now running like a champ and with no leaks.
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit Tub Bearing Kit
  • William from Lusby, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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replace snubber pads and springs
I followed the directions given me from parts select. I used the instructional YouTube videos. Both gave me the courage to do this project myself. The 35 year old wash machine works perfect !
Parts Used:
BOLT Damper Pad Kit
  • Peter from Batavia, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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water leaking from under tube above transmission
Remove front panel removed two screws holding top down, then removed plastic tube cover, removed balancer to make more room to work. Next removed set screw holding dasher, next remove spanner nut that held inner tube shield. Tthen lifted inner tube out of washer, now I removed the stem hold down and seal important clean area where seal touches the tube nowuse little water to wet new seal pt new seal ln careful not to damage simply reverse removal step and put the unit back together
Parts Used:
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
  • James from Paris, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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All Instructions for the MAT12PRAEW
106 - 120 of 151