MAT12PRAEW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

I googled "washer leaking water" and found some videos which then lead to PartSelect. I had a bit if difficulty finding my parts, but with help of the PartSelect customer service I was able to get what I needed along with some more instructions. I ended up replacing all the hoses, the drain pump and the siphon break. My washer is back in use and my floor is dry. PartSelect is now in my Favorites List.

I took the front off by removing the two Phillips head screws at the bottom. I leaned the washer backwards and blocked the front up about 6 - 8 inches. Next I loosened the three screws that hold the pump on. Then remove the belt. Now it is time to get the hoses off by taking the clamps loose. Wiggle the hose and pull them off. You need a small bowel and towels to collect the water in the hoses. The final step is to take out the three screws that you already loosened that hold the pump on. The pump can now be lifted up and removed. Replace the pump with the new one and reverse the procedure.

The repair went well.I had to replace the seal under the tub.The video was the key to my success,I did not have a spanner wrench,I don't think it would have helped anyway,The nut was corroded I had to drill holes and chisel it apart after that it was no problem.

Pump was eazy to replace the clean up took longer than the fix.

Removed access panel on back of machine to remove Air Tube where it connects to wash basin. Removed control panel cover on top of machine and front panel of machine so top could be lifted for easier access to the point where Air Tube plugs in to water level selector switch. Tube is attached at both ends via spring clips. Replaced tube; problem solved. As a note, the old tube was clogged, and once cleaned, the machine functioned normally again. I had already ordered the replacement so I installed it in place of the old tube when it arrived. The new tube is significantly longer but functions perfectly.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

The repair went fairly smooth following the directions that came with the damper pad kit from partselect.com. It only took as long as it did because the glue has to dry for the pads and it takes a few minutes to scrape off the old pads and glue. this can definitely be done by a first time do it yourselfer. Pliers are needed to remove a spring hose clamp in the back of the washer drum. Two 4x4's are needed to rest the washer drum on in order to gain access to the pads (in directions provided).

Exactly as shown in your provided video from You Tube. What a life saver. The description of needed tools, and the fact that the main nuts securing the tub were REVERSE thread! I would not have suspected that and probably would still be beating on them, tightening them rather than loosening them!It is worth the price to purchase the spanner wrench (correct style), used to remove those tub nuts. Thanks for the great service and the video. Well done!

I did an internet search for a leaking washer and came across this web site.I looked under my washer model and it showed the repair parts plus it has a video of a repairman doing the job.The video was none the less the best help I could ever imagine.Tools needed and how to do the job a step at a time.The parts came to my door in two days via regular shipping method.I also purchased the special SPANNER WRENCH on eBay for about 10 bucks and it showed up the same day as my parts.The job took me about a hour and now my washer works like it should with no leaks.Thanks to Parts Select I highly recommend this site and their my new lifesaver. Ciao, Steve M