MAH14PDABW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

My Maytag Neptune quit spinning. I found an on-line diagnostic tree and traced the problem to the wax motor. Testing indicated that the motor had failed even though it was still getting power. The continuity between the wax motor and control board appeared to test good. Based on the apparent diagnostic results, I found PartSelect, read their reviews, and ordered and installed the new wax motor. Once installed, I discovered the new wax motor would not work. I did some more online research .It helped me to find that I had a burned R11 on the control board. It's great for those who want to try their repair skills before ordering a new control board at nearly $350. I I contacted Neptunehelp.com and explained I had just purchased a new wax motor from PartSelect. Neptunehelp sent me the rest of their Stage 1 Repair kit at a discount by eliminating the wax motor in the kit. The kit included solder, a solder wick, a wire to open the printed circuit board holes, and both a new R11 and Q6. The site had a thorough explanation as to why both electronic components should be replaced at the same time...any why both should be replaced if the wax motor has failed. They also had an excellent video on some tricks about installing the wax motor, and an excellent video review on soldering tips if you want to attempt a repair on your own. PartSelect was OK for as far as it went, and the wax motor I purchased now works as it's supposed to. But I hope they will link to the Neptunehelp.com site to assist those who are more adventurous and have more advanced do-it-yourself skills. If you know anything about a VOM and have ever done a little soldering, it may be a better option than buying a wax motor and control board when only the was motor, R11, and Q6 are needed. I've completed the whole repair, including soldering in the new electronic components, and have just completed one wash cycle...the unit now works like new. If you are unsure about your electrical skills, you might want to stick with PartSelect and buy a wax motor and control board. If you're more experienced, and don't mind spending about $50 before having to spend nearly $400, then check out the Neptunehelp.com site for some good one-stop shopping and some good instructional references. They have a couple of contingency plans if the Stage 1 kit fails to fix the problem.

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.

Replaced wax motor. You must also replace R11 (3.9 Ohm carbon film resistor (1/4 watt), Q6 Triac (Mouser 526-NTE5656), replaced Jp 18 (jumper) with a fuse (Mouser 576-0251.500HAT1l. This job requires the use of a solder sucker in order to remove parts without lifting up cooper traces.I have had experience with many electronic projects,and could have done this one easier if I still had the proper tools.A solder sucker is cheap, and without it, you will damage the traces. I did, but used a continuity checker to verify I made solder contact with the traces. I have six of these stacked washer/dryers. All failed after about a year of use. I am in absolute disbelief regarding all the stories about how easy this repair is.

I watched the provided video that EXCELLENTLY showed the replacement of the part. Then I was able to complete the task with no trouble at all

remove door phillips remove front push down and pry out remove soap tray phillips remove two nut screws to lift up topy open tie or support top up remove bad contactor phillips normaly open check with continunity tester replace and reverse procedure

Had to remove the door, the face of the washer, and two face pieces between the washer and the stacked drier. I then removed and replaced the bellow. The installation of the new bellow was difficult, the first time. Getting the silicone part onto the tub is tricky as is re-installing the cable and spring. I must have not gotten the cable properly seated on the lower lip as it leaked and I hade to repeat the job the next day. The second time around was much easier. There is a learning curve, even for me, a retired electro mechanical tech. I thing someone who is not very handy would have trouble with it. This repair should be considered only by someone of intermediate or better skills.

First and foremost, disconnect the power before anything else, then remove the door, access panel, and front of the washer,I then detached the front of the rubber boot so I could remove the plastic panel that it attaches to, that exposes the springs, I then used a vice grip to remove the springs replacing them one at a time, I also replaced the struts in the rear of the machine which requires removing the rear panel, and I used a bottle jack to support the rear of the washer tub while I changed the struts, I changed the struts first which only helped a little, the springs made the job complete and the washer now completely wrings the clothes to a damp state that dries quickly.

removed front of washer. loosened two hose clamps. replaced hose. tightened clamps. replaced front cover.

With the video you had on your web site, the repair was very easy. couldn't be any happier. you saved me from buying a new washer!

My 16 yr old son replaced the door boot. He said it was very easy although the wire was alittle tricky. But all in all it was very easy for him. Saved me alot of money.

The service representative knew exactly what was needed from the description of the problem that was given to her. The hinges were received within a few days. The door was removed and the hinges were replaced and it does not sag anymore. Thank you for your great service.

Unplugged, removed back, removed hose, removed pump. Reversed the order and plugged it back in. Walla! Do'n wash again. Parts Select is the way to go.

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.