Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > LWA50AW > Instructions

LWA50AW (PLWA50AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LWA50AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LWA50AW
16-30 of 153
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Machine would start to spin and shut off.

  • Customer: Andrea from Hauppauge, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the front cover to gain access to the motor. I saw that the belt was starting to get chewed up so I removed it. While looking at the schematic on Parts.com I noticed the Idler Pulley Wheel was much larger then one currently on the machine. I ordered that also in case I needed it. I needed it. Once I replaced the belt and the pulley the machine ran better then ever. Originally I thought I just needed the belt but thanks to Parts.com I realized I needed a little more. Thanks.

Motor Hum when trying to start the washer

  • Customer: Kurt from Palm Beach Gardens, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the motor.
Opened the front panel to gain access to the motor. Removed the motor assembly by removing the four steel screws holding the assembly in place. Removed the motor from the assembly (very easy) put the new motor in place.
ZZZZooom-ZZZZoom off and running. I would like to add I was very pleased with the service received from Partsselect.com. I got the part 20% cheaper than ANYWHERE else and got it delivered the next day for no additional charge. The shipping charge was also very resonable. GOOD JOB GUYS!!!

Washer began to leak about a pint of water per load. Water was stained black by residual belt abd brake dust the water was picking up as it dripped throught the machine.

  • Customer: Sheldon from North Yarmouth, ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions that came with the hub and seal kit, which were pretty well written but not terribly detailed. Once I got into the job though, I felt confident that the instructions told me all of the important information--the rest was common sense. If you're reasonably handy you can pull this off.

The instructions call for some specialty tools, which I was able to do without by using the following:

• Drive Bell:
The old drive bell slid right off without a puller--I think I got lucky on this one.

To install the new drive bell I used a long 1/4-20 bolt, nut and fender washers. I spun a nut way up the bolt then slid the fender washers on. I threaded all of this down into the transmission output shaft until it bottomed out. Then I turned the nut down to push the washers and drive bell down until it hit bottom. Then I backed out out the bolt and washers and installed the shoulder screw.

• Hub:
I used a generic wheel-puller I already had to get this off and it came off with little effort. I put the old shoulder screw back into the top of the shaft for the point of the puller to sit on so it wouldn't mess up the transmission output shaft or threads (obvious, I know but a bad thing to overlook).

Drive Bell Seal:
• This calls for seal tool #293P4. I'm sure the seal can be installed by hand but it happened that the two extension tubes from my Shop-Vac were exactly the right diameters to seat the bottom and top parts of the seal.

• Lint filter:
The instructions just say "remove lint filter" but it was pretty stuck on and seems pretty fragile so I took it easy. I used a small scrap of 1/8-inch plywood to slide under the edge until it popped off.

The instructions say not to use the four rubber washers on the bolts that attach the inner tub to the hub if the machine has a stainless tub. Mine has a stainless tub and the original bolts had rubber washers on them so I used the new washers when i reinstalled the inner tub.

I found the 3M-800 Scotch Seal industrial sealant at a local appliance pats distributor. I researched it and it seemed like a specific enough product that it wasn't worth risking the whole job to use something I already had like Lexel. I learned that the reason it doesn't come with the kit is that it requires Haz-Mat handling, which would probably double the cost of the parts kit. One set of instructions I read from Maytag said that "the customer can use the machine after 15 minutes". But the sealant tube says it fully cures in 1 - 3 days. So I squirted out a ribbon on a piece of paper when I did the job so I could monitor the drying time and split the difference, allowing it to dry overnight. Seems as though that's long enough.

I did the job step-by-step and it seems to have worked. The first load is running right now and so far it's dry as a bone.

One thing I noticed is that some of the parts seem to have been updated over the original ones to improve performance. The drive bell and associated seal have a more sophisticated mating relationship that seems as though it will provide a better seal than the original.

Good luck

Leaked Water through lower tub seal

  • Customer: John from Greenup, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
1st, I removed the top, back and side panels. Then removed the plastic parts off the top of the tubs. Next removed the agitator from it's hub. In the center of the agitator hub was a retaining bolt to be removed next using a 7/16" socket. Had to use a gear puller to get the agitator hub up off it's spline. Then there were four 1/2" socket size hex bolts to remove facilitating the removal of the inner stainless steel tub. Next was the toughest part of my task, the removal of the large hex nut holding the inner tub hub down. Since I did not have a socket large enough to fit the nut, I used a ball peen hammer to loosen it by striking it on it's hex flats in an angle that would tend to drive it in a CCW rotation. It took several blows but finally it began to loosen. Then removed it with my Channel Lock water pump pliers. Once the Inner tub hub was removed, the lower seal was accessible. Removed the old seal from the outer tub flange, and scraped off all the old sealant with a razor blade scraper. Then installed the new seal according to the instructions supplied with the new hub and seal kit. Re-assembled the washer, ran it through a cycle while it was still out in the garage to ensure the leak was fixed and was happy to find that indeed it was. Everything went fairly well if you overlook the slight cut on my right thumb I suffered while re-assembling the covers. It wasn't too bad, a band aid fixed it up.

Broken belt - lots of banging and noise

  • Customer: John from Avon, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I searched "sav2655aww repair" (my model number) on the internet, and found people who had the same problem - and did the same repair. Some put up very detailed instructions.
Anyway, with instruction, it was a pretty easy job. Remove the front panels, disconnect the hoses from the water pump, unplug the electrical connector from the motor, remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor mount, and slip off what was left of the belt. To replace the belt, I also needed to temporarily remove the water pump (3 torx screws) from the motor, because the belt snaked in between those two parts. Once replaced, I remounted the motor, slipped the belt over the main wheel (under the tub), set the belt tension wheel to take up the slack, and reattached the hoses and wires. Surprisingly, the belt replacement took care of the noise (the whole unit would sway out and repeatedly hit the front panel during a wash - I suppose it wasn't agitating or spinning correctly). Works like new.

Seal on water pump was leaking

  • Customer: Douglas from Spring, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the washer to prevent shock while handling motor. Remove the front botton access panel. Move the drive belt off the idler pulley to provide slack to move belt off the other pulleys. Note position or take picture of belt position before removal to aid in getting it in the correct position for reinstallation. Move the hose clamps up the hoses far enough to remove the hoses from the pump. A towel is handy here as there is still a little water in the hoses and pump. Remove the four bolts holding the motor bracket to the bottom of the washer. The wiring to the motor does not need to be disconnected. Rotate the bracket with motor and pump attached so that the assembly is horizontal and the pump is to the right hand side. Use the torx bit to remove the bolts holding the pump in place. Install the new pump, being careful to get the drive belt in the proper position while doing so. Do not over tighten the bolts on the new pump since it is plastic. Rotate the motor bracket back to its original position and install the four bolts. Get all four bolts installed loosely before tightening any fully to insure the bracket is aligned properly and none of the bolts will be in a bind. Once the bolts are tight, put the drive belt on the small pulley and then work in around to position on the large pulley. Position the belt back into its position on the idler pulley. Put the hoses on the pump as far as they will go then slide the hose clamps back into their original position. Replace the bottom access panel and plug the washer back in.

Irregular wash sequence after washer fill-ups

  • Customer: Greg from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged washer. Removed 3 phillips screws securing the top panel to washer cabinet,tilting it forward to expose electrical components. Verified the Lid Switch and Pressure Swtich were both operating w/ohm measurements w/multimeter.A loose paper of electrical schematics was folded and enclosed in top of panel area. I then plugged unit in to ensure 110VAC power was available to input of Timer Switch -it was. I concluded that the Timer Switch was defective. After initial tub water fill-ups it would just sit, sometime for an hour. Then it might agitate and after another long delay, would spin. I tried all 4 wash cycle positions. The shorter cycles seemed to work w/less irrregular delays, but still did not cycle through properly. Although a bit pricey ($114.89), the Cycle Timer Switch was purchased. Replacement [after power plug removal] , required removal of two hold down phillips screws and careful unplugging of multi-pin power plug, insuring the plastic lock tabs were depressed for unplugging. Installation was quick and easy w/exact match part. I feel the quality of the replacement "Maytag" part was of higher quality.i.e. original had plastic sheeting around body, while replacement had thin sheet metal and electrical contacts appeared more robust in their contact areas. Yes, I pulled old timer apart...I believe the small cycle motor just wore out at the gear splines, causing intermittant cycle timer advancement.

Washer Cycles wouldn't work correctly

  • Customer: David from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I took the olf timer off of the Washer and noticed that some of the points on the timer were bad. I search the internet for the best deal on a new time and PartSelect had the cheapest and best Web Site to handle my replacement part order. Not only did the part arrive early it was a perfect match. I would recommend them to anyone.

motor would't work

  • Customer: CARLOS from MIAMI, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed the 4 screws that hold the motor in place.pull the motor out and disconnected the wires ,remove the belt from the pulley, when motor was out the work was very easy 3 more bolts that hold another element in place and the rest was piece of cake ...done thanks to parts select for send me the right part at first time i recomended and i received my motor in just 3 days.congratulation

Washer filling very slowly

  • Customer: Bill from Lafayette Hill, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug washer, turn off water supply, disconnect hoses from washer valve(have bucket ready for water remaining in hoses), Remove bottom front panel by unscrewing two hex head screws near floor then pulling panel toward you and down, remove top front panel same as bottom to expose screws securing washer top, lift washer top and prop open or tilt back onto counter(hold washer lid when tilting back). The inlet valve is on the back right. Label and unplug wires, unscrew hose clamp and remove hose, go to back of washer and unscrew plate holding valve and remove. Mount new valve to plate and fasten from back of washer, reconnect hose and wiring, close cover and fasten screws, replace front covers and secure, reconnect water supply hoses(do not over tighten), turn on water and plug in washer.

Washing machine made squeaking noise

  • Customer: Peter from Littleton, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench set
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Brake pad kit does not come with installation instructions even though it says it does. Remove bottom front panel from washer. There are three brake pads. One of mine (the right one) broke into three pieces and was found on the bottom of the washer. This is how I identified what was wrong. Run the washing machine on the handwash extra light cycle (you could use another cycle, I used this one because I believe it is the shortest), there is a point in the cycle where the disk clamping the brake pads separates from the brake pads and allows you to remove and replace the pads. During other parts of the cycle, the disk is clamped onto the brakes and you could not remove or install a brake pad. I removed the two black hose on the bottom right to get to the right brake pad. Have a 2 gallon bucket ready to collect the water if you did run the washer as above. With difficulty, I was also able to reach around the back side of the right brake pad. I used a socket wrench set. I then removed and replaced the left brake pad. I left the rear brake pad in place. I was not able to get to it.

Would not empty water

  • Customer: James from Houma, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.

Washe would not spin clothes or agitate well

  • Customer: Berry from Mt Sidney, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled motor, as the belt will not come off unless you take to water pump off off the motor. Installed new idler wheel, washers, clips and belt. Reinstalled motor.
Works good and hopefully lasts a long time!

Washer leaking water from the bottom.

  • Customer: Donald from Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

Idler Pulley Wheel wasn't turning, causing belt to crack up due to heat build

  • Customer: ROBERT from Anaheim, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Remove bottom and top front panel to access motor. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. Remove spring that applies pressure to the Idler pulley wheel. Pull out electrical connector by pressing on the tab on top. Remove rubber hoses by gripping clamps with pliers. Unhook belt from pulley at bottom of tub. Pull out motor. Push upward and inward the top of the tub to make pulling out the motor easier. Remove allen screws that secure the plastic pump housing so you can remove the belt. Replace belt. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel, remember to order replacement washers, mine was brittle and disintegrated so had to remove the second one from the bottom and used only one each side, seems to work fine. Reassemble everything in reverse order. It now purrs like a kitten, wife is now happy doing the laundry, I get to ride my motorcycle this weekend at the Los Angeles Crest Highway carving the canyons, whoohoo! Life is good.
All Instructions for the LWA50AW
16-30 of 153