LSE7806BCE Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

After I replaced the timer, the washer still would not wash or spin. So my son replaced the lid check switch. It was hard to remove the screw, but he finally managed to remove it and easily replaced the switch. The washer works perfectly. We kept the timer installed (also easy to do by removing the old and replacing it with the new by just unplugging wires and I think one screw) because the old one had not worked properly for a few years when I had a similar problem which resolved, except it would only work in main cycle with soaking which was sufficient for me. This large capacity washer is in good shape and I hope will last at least another 5 - 10 years. ).

Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

I looked at the common problems in the owners manual and one item was the lid was not closed or the lid switch was bad. I took off the control panel and there was a schematic inside. This showed 2 lid switches. When trying to see if one switch was closed as it should be, touching the multimeter to the contacts was enough to get the washer going. .

Unplugged the dryer (electric), removed two screws at bottom of front panel and removed front panel. Pulled electrical clips from sensor lugs near center.front of drum exterior. Located sensor inside front of drum interior, removed screw at each end. Removed old sensor, placed new sensor in position, attached with screws. Installed electrical clips on lugs, closed front panel and secured with two screws. Plugged in the dryer and it worked!

checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works

followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

How to disassemble the dryer has been covered in past repair stories. I will add a make shift repair that will get you up and running until you get your replacement blower wheel. We repair gas dryers for a living and this repair works and some machines are still running for two years. Remove the blower wheel. Cut a piece of plumber strap of similar sized metal to about 3/16" x 1/2". Hold it with vise grips and then heat it with a torch. When it is hot melt it into the hole in the blower wheel. This will give you a flat spot in the shaft hole that will keep the blower from spinning on the motor shaft. Some trial and error fitting is involved. If you do it carefully the blower wheel will fit very nicely and will not vibrate or make noise.

In addition to the other helpful suggestions:

The key to replacing the motor is to remove the motor while it is still clipped in to the bracket (after removing the blower assembly, of course.) Don't remove the tumbler and belt thinking it will give you clear access to the rear clip, because it won't.

Removing the bracket is not complicated. There are two screws that are fairly easy to access and keep the bracket in place (refer to parts diagram for location); when the screws are removed, out comes the motor assembly (after disconnecting the wires, of course.) This is the only way to get access to the two clips that hold the motor to the bracket.

As for those pesky clips, I was able to use a flat screwdriver in one hand and vice grips in the other to pry off the clips. After a few tries, working on one end of the clip, I was able to apply quite a lot of downward pressure without braking the end of the clip. If anyone has another suggestion....

Putting the clips back on was much easier. First, remount the motor to the bracket, making sure to rotate the motor to the 2 o'clock position so you can re-attach the ground wire (or else you'll have to unclip the motor again, like I did!) Then re-attach the clip on one side. With the clip aligned properly, bear down with a flat screw driver on the other end of the clip. A swift knock with a hammer on the top of the screwdriver will easily re-attach the clip. Repeat with the second clip.

If you proceed carefully and patiently, this job can be accomplished without specialized tools or expertise.

Unhooked H and C water lines. Removed cover plate with control valves. Pulled power wires off solenoid valves. Remove exit water hose clamp then hose. Put new valves on in reverse process. Checked washer through cycle to see it worked all OK. Had to make new mount ro install valves.

Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.

This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.