LFSC2324VF5 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

I first opened the breaker controlling the outlets by the refrigerator. After verifying there was no power to the refrigerator, I removed the screws holding the trim façade in place and removed it. Next I removed the screws holding the control board in place and removed it from its position and then disconnected the wires connecting it to the ice dispenser module. I then used the diagonal cutters to cut the flex-tie holding the water inlet tube in place. Next I removed the screws holding the ice dispenser module in place and unclipped the water inlet tube from it and removed the whole unit. I then attached the water inlet to the new dispenser, flex-tied it in place and reversed the above stated process. Once completed, I restored power and everything worked well.

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

So simple! I just slid the drawer out of the old frame, inserted it in the new one, and added the glass cover.

REMOVED THE DRAWER, LIFTED OFF THE GLASS, REMOVED THE BROKEN SLIDE, AND PLACED THE NEW SLIDE IN THE PROPER SPACE. REPLCED THE GLASS SHELF TOP AND THE DRAWER. PEICE OF CAKE

REPLACED WITH NEW.
HOWEVER, THE WATER FILTER INDICATOR STILL SAYS
'REPLACE'. THERE IS NO LEAKAGE, BUT IT APPEARS LIKE THE NEW CARTRIDGE IS NOT COMPLETELY INSERTED. I'VE TRIED REMOVING AND REPLACING THE NEW CARTRIDGE SEVERAL TIMES, BUT IT STILL SAYS 'REPLACE'.
INCIDENTALLY, THIS WAS THE SECOND ORDER OF THE CARTRIDGE AND LAST TIME I GOT TWO, AND THEY BOTH FIT FINE! WITH THIS ORDER I GOT JUST ONE.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

The line for the water to the door was too short to install. Lacked about 4-6”Ice maker line was fine.

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

I used pliers to get the remaining shelf support studs out, then the new ones just snapped right in place. Very easy repair!

Just slipped them into place. Very simple. Thanks for getting me the correct shelves. You guys were my 3rd attempt to get correct shelves. Thanks!

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

I just slipped it into place.