LFHT1817LW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The service manual diagram shows the 149 complete fan shroud in a vertical (upright) position. Misleading! Of course.
The actual mounting of the lay in fan shroud fully assembled is in the horizontal position laying in a tray area just above the evaporator coil cage assembly. The entire shroud assembly can be installed incorrectly by the diagram and will still fit. BUT... no cold air will flow or be forced into the ice maker vent nor the refrigerator vent. I found this out the hard way by trial & error.
If the drawing had shown it in the horizontal position for both removal and reinstallation... it would have saved a lot of time and headaches. Also, the diagram does not show the (2) plastic angle supports on the shroud, another scratch your head event. Parts included on drawing... 149, 5, 8, 9, 13, 14 on CTFFHS2611PF4 diagram page of service manual.
ALSO, the (4) lower cabinet plate screws have to be removed, and the first left hand screw counting up to allow the next upper panel to swing out enough to lay the shroud in correctly (horizontal) on top of the evaporator coil cage. BOTTOM LINE... THE AIR FLOW HAS TO BE UP IN ORDER TO WORK PROPERLY.

grab gasket on a corner and pull...new gasket push raised rib into grove....your Done!!!

The repair was a simple replacement. The problem was that after waiting three weeks for the new drawer to arrive I had to call the company and ask what the delay was?? They said the first order was lost in the mail?? Second order arrived within a week. But we didn't enjoy having to wait this long.

I easily removed the shelf, cleaned it, removed one screw, adjusted a tab that was bent, then installed new side rail with the screw that was removed and put back the shelf and storage bin. Everything worked perfectly. I must have saved $100 by doing it myself.

Used a small screwdriver to disconnect the left side rail from and replaced with the new left side rail. Everything went smooth and from start to finish, replaced the piece in about 3 minutes. Works great now!

Easy peasey just slipped it in

I found a couple of videos online of a similar product fix to get a lay of the land. When I got the part, I unplugged the unit and turned off the water. It was easy to take off the back panel and remove the old water intake valve to swap it out for the new one. Once I attached everything again I could see that the valve was taking up water but it didnt seem to be going all the way to the icemaker. I gave it some time and by the next day, there was fresh ice!

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Put crisper cover in place and positioned glass cover.

It was extremely easy. I opened door, unscrewed the two (2) screws at the top of the door handle with a phillips screw driver. Once screws were out I rotated the handle to the left and unhooked it from the mounting block. The new handle was already equipped with a mounting block. I attached the new handles mounting block to the door and rotated the handle up and positioned the holes to the holes on the door. I used the same 2 screws from the old handle and tightened them into the handle and door. That was it. Very easy.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

Discovered the coil was covered with 1/2 inch of ice because defrost cycle had not been working. Replacing the defrost timer and melting ice with hair dryer fixed problem. Hooray!

After watching numerous YouTube videos I realized that my problem was either the timer or the thermostat. I purchased both for above $70 total and decided it was worth the gamble to self- repair it instead of buying a new refrigerator for $700 plus taxes and delivery charges. The videos were right on with excellent directions for replacing these 2 products. Only has one problem… the shrink wrap that came with the thermostat is very thick and will NOT shrink with a hairdryer. I hade to run to ACE Hardware to buy a heat gun and more shrink wrap

Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker
Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.

Very easy. Watched a video on your site prior to getting the glass replacement. Removed the crisper drawers. Placed the glass in the front and placed it down. Took just a few minutes. Love your site and will come back again when needed. Thank-you.