LAT8604AAM Maytag Washer - Instructions

The repair man shouldnt have opened his big mouth. He told me exactly what the problem was over the phone, but said he couldnt get to it for a few days. 20 minutes later I found the part and overnighted it to my house. Removed the back panel with a few screws. Couldnt have been easier.

The hardest part was actually finding the right part. It was easy to take of the control panel. make sure you unplug and plug in the correct wires....

I thought that would be it, but after doing that you need to fine adjust the whole assembly so that the timers and automatic switches work well.

That's about it.

Washer originally purchased from Sears. Called Sears for repair. $65.00 to show up. Diagnosed the problem as a Bad belt and pump. Asked for approx. $250 to repair. I declined and ordered a belt and pump from PartSelect.com for half the cost. Took 10-15 minutes to install. Turned the washer on and put it through a drain cycle, it leaked all over the floor. Turns out the only problem was a cracked Outer Tub to Pump Hose. It took about 10 minutes to install. Whala, no leak. Now while I purchased an un-needed pump and belt from PartSelect.com, not their problem. Even though I purchased two items that were not required, the cost was still half of what Sears wanted to charge me for a repair that would not have fixed the problem. I will certainly continue to use and recommend PartSelect.com.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

When selecting a cold cycle, the inlet valve would allow for slow water flow resulting in 15+ minute tank fill times.

I unplugged the washer, disconnected all water sources.

I removed the 3 screws holding the water inlet value and cover. Disconnected all cabling and water tubing. Replaced valve, reconnected all cabling and reinstalled.

While I was doing the repair on the inlet value. I replaced the hose washer and also installed a screen kit at the home water valve. The home is supported by a well and at times sees sedimentation in the water which could have sparked the initial issue to begin with.

I did clean the old water inlet valve once before which fixed the problem temporarily. It was time to replace the entire part.

This corrected the issue.

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

The valve was leaking. I shut off the water to the machine and unplugged the power supply. I removed the defective valve. I then installed the new replacement valve reconnecting the 3 hoses and the 4 wires to the selenoid. I plugged it in and tried it before I pushed the machine back in place. I had to retighten one of the hose connections due to leaking. The leak stopped and I then pushed the machine back in place.

It saved me some $500.00, the cost of a new machine.

UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE OUTLET

Remove control knob, - use thin blade to pry off the front cover to reveal a small locking clip. Slide clip out with blade or screwdriver.

Note the two bolts to remove the timer using a nutdriver or small socket

Remove front control cover, (There are actually four screws on top but you only need to remove the two inside screws. The outside screws just hold the plastic ends on.)

While supporting the cover, remove the timer by removing the two bolts under the knob you removed earlier.

Remove the two electrical connections. ( Hold locking clip out when wiggling the connection free.)

Reverse order install of the new timer, plug it back in and washer washes, magic!

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

opened front of washer, removed motor, replaced glides and springs, installed motor and replaced belts. Installed new hoses and vacuum breaker. Its been a week now and no leaks or other problems.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

Our Maytag (A308) washer is now about 29 yrs old. I put in a PartSelect water valve 3 yrs ago. When it started leaking recently I found the cuplrit to be a flexible hose to the outer basis. The front came off easily (two screws at the bottom) and the hose clamps required some cleaning. I recommend purchasing new clamps. Under 30 minutes to get it running again.