KUDY25SHWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

I had replaced the control board a month or two earlier. Then smelled plastic burning. I noticed the Sta-con connecters in the molex plug had burned - that's what took out the control board. The fuse assembly came with new connectors - so you know this is a known problem with the machine. If you're handy you can buy the thermal fuse from Newark for $0.88 and replace it by soldering - but you need to replace the sta-cons. They corrode and the bad connection causes the heat making the thermal trip.

Removed the inner door panel and then the circuit board protective cover (which just snaps in). Fuse assembly is readily accessible and just snaps in. The wires are attached with spade lugs using existing wiring. No wiring modificatins needed,

Installed pump kit. Was surprised the kit seemed different( some parts changed or deleted. Instructed to discard old parts and follow with new configuration. Reassembled and tried t fin it works fine now. Thank you so much

1) Removed the two panels below the door.
2) Unscrewed the two screws holding the dishwasher to the upper cabinet facing.
3) Pulled dishwasher out 6-8 inches to gain access to springs located on the side.
4) Removed the broken spring.
5) Attached the new spring.
6) Openned and closed the door to make sure spring was tight enough.
7) Pushed dishwasher back in.
8) Rescrewed cabinet facing screws
9) Rescrewed floor panels.

Only problem was with ordering ... PartSelect part number is different than the FSP-Whirlpool part number. PartSelect should provide a cross-reference table if there is a difference between OEM number and PartSelect number.

Install too less that a minute. Fit perfectly.

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

Took the bottom panel off and felt with fingers to replace spring with out pulling dishwasher out from enclosure.
Fairly simple

First I read the other repair stories and knew it was a relatively easy repair. I removed the end caps on the front of the top dish rack and removed it for ease of access to the part. I then removed the two screws holding in the old part observing how it was positioned to make sure the new part was replaced in the same manner. I put the new part in place and screwed in place and replaced the dish rack. Everything is working just fine.

I unscrewed the wash arm tube from the agitator, and then unhooked the plastice holders that held the arm tube, pulling those parts out of the dishwasher. I took the new (one piece!) wash arm tube in hand and then realized that I would have to cut the plastic holder in half because there was no way to get the new (1 piece) arm tube through the plastic holder. I cut the plastic holder in half, fit it around the arm tube, and super glued the holder back together, allowing it to dry for several hours just to be safe. After that, I simply screwed the entire thing back on, and we were good to go. It could not have been easier, except for the unexpectedness of have to cut the plastic holder. Saved us probably at least $100 worth of service call and parts.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Actually I ordered the drain and wash impeller kit because it was listed as the #1 cause of failure to drain. I then hired a plumber to install it. He did so and that didn't solve the problem. So I was about to buy a new dishwasher. I then noticed that the second most frequent cause was a problem with the "dishwasher drain check valve." I watched the "partselect" video on how to change that. I didn't have a new one but I thought I would take out the part and see what I could learn. As it turned out it was blocked by a little piece of what appeared to be a walnut chip. I cleaned it out reinstalled the drain check valve and the problem was solved.

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

1 Screw 5 minutes thanks for the quick service will definitely use ya'll next time