KUDY25SHWH1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I used a pair of pliers to take out the corroded old door gasket. I then used my fingers to put in the new gasket, beginning at the middle of the top of the frame and working my way down on each side. It couldn't have been easier.

First I read the other repair stories and knew it was a relatively easy repair. I removed the end caps on the front of the top dish rack and removed it for ease of access to the part. I then removed the two screws holding in the old part observing how it was positioned to make sure the new part was replaced in the same manner. I put the new part in place and screwed in place and replaced the dish rack. Everything is working just fine.

One screw was taken out, the old arm removed, the new one put in place, then attached to the new arm tube holder. TADA!!!! Done.
I am a widow, and think I saved about $75.00 doing this job myself. Thank you.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,

Followed the video. Only issue was that the panel mount screws cracked the plastic nibs that the screws threaded into. I replaced the screws with a Chrome sheet metal screw a bit longer and it held. Easy job!

repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher

Old style tube was an assembly of 3 separate parts, so it could come apart to pass through the holder bracket easily. New style tube was a single piece. The moldings on either end are too large to slip through the holder bracket circular ring. Apparently, the newer style holder brackets have a slit or break in the ring. Not so with the older bracket I had. I merely cut my own slit at the top of the ring on my old bracket, allowing me to spread the ring wide enough to allow either end of the single-piece tube to pass through. There is very little pressure on the holder bracket ring - it's just a holster for the tube. So the slit does not affect performance. Job done in 30 min.

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

Uncscrewed the lower washer arm retaining nut and replaced it along wint the 2 washers. Cleans like new.

Unscrewed the front panal from behind. Removed the inside vent covering. Unscrewed the handle screws and removed the handle. Replaced the handle and screws but not before gouging the back of my hand ( I had a needle and thread) and then reattached the panal and vent cavering. The blow-up diagrams you all have are a great reference. Thanks

Removed the plugs in the slides, removed the rack, slid the new rack in and replaced the plugs.

I bought the kit because it had other parts that I thought I needed.

I first had to take the upper drawer of the dishwasher out so that I could get to the faulty part. This was a little tricky as there were two clips that had to be removed from the arm slides before the upper drawer could be removed.
I then realized that the faulty part DID NOT exactly match the repair part I received. The original connection wand was in two pieces where the repair part was all one piece. That required a bit of thought before I began the repair. There was NO drawing accompanying the new part, so I had to decide how the part would be connected. After a little trial and error, I determined the arrangement of the repair part and completed the repair. All in all, it went well, but there was a few anxious moments when I first saw the difference between the original part and the new part.

Remove bottom valence to get access to 2 screws on the bottom flange of front cover. With those 2 screws removed the front panel comes off revealing the rear side of the dispenser and 6 screws that hold dispenser tightly to the inside panel. Remove 2 wires that are push connectors to solenoid. The unit simply drops out. Installation is just the reversal of removal. Very easy.