KSM97SL5 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior to removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.

Literally the whole top of this stand mixer had to be taken apart. With the help of U-tube! We realized the silver strip was removable and there where screws underneath. We figured we would replace both parts while it was all taken apart. We cleaned the mixer and added some grease where necessary. I now have a 25 year old new mixer. Thanks for having our parts and guiding us with a diagram of the unit. Very helpful.

We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.

remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse order as they withdrew.

Pulled off end cover. Used the how-to video's to show me how to remove the (3) components (watch out when it comes to removing the spring). Removed all (3) components (one issue was the black cardboard seal, which because of its age broke. Hindsight tells me that I should have purchased a replacement seal along with the (3) new parts.
Fixed the broken part of the seal with scotch tape). Installed all new parts with the help of the video's and put the cover back on. Even with the new parts, the mixer would not run. Come to find out, after I took it to an appliance repair person, that someone had pulled both brushes and put them back in improperly. I could not find a how-to video that showed me how to de-install/re-install the brushes properly. I assume that was because new brushes were no longer available for purchase. At any rate, when the brushes were put in properly, everything worked. The repair person also adjusted the (2) screws on the speed control plate so that when you change the speeds via the lever, it all works properly. I didn't find a how-to video covering those adjustments either.

Place Pin in hole where it was missing then gently tap pin into place
Run a test and all is good ??
make sure to use a drift pin set
Tom

This is the tightening screw that holds the attachments into the motor unit of the mixer. Found your web site and reordered 2 replacement pieces (in case one breaks!). Very EZ and user friendly. Thank you!

no instructions necessary

I removed the pin from the outside shaft,then removed all screw around the body of the mixer,then removed the top case out,took 3 screws out from the the gear assembly case......punched the pin out of worm gear then release the little shaft out from the case,replaced a new one....then starting go backward till completely all assembled don't forget lube grease to all gears and test run good very smooth.........it's ok

Repairing/replacing worm-gear (FSP part# W10112253) for a KitchenAid Stand Mixer model number K5SS. First: I am writing this story because all the videos or repair articles I’ve viewed are either misleading or incorrect in that they do not include older K5SS models. 1. These older models from the mid 1960’s or even earlier have four very large #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws holding the mixer base to the motor assembly and NOT four small machine screws (one with a lock-washer) as seen on other repair videos. In addition, the stand is composed of two separate pieces with the bottom half being held together with another four identical #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws. The upper four holding the stand to the motor housing (I used a manual impact driver to loosen the very stubborn, #4 Phillips screws) must be removed so as to access the four smaller Phillips machine screws (no lock-washers found here, best buy at least four #10, split, before reassembly) 2. Lastly, you will need two pin punches however the recommended smaller 3/32 inch is still too large to remove the pin in the tower assembly. You will need one size smaller or a #4 pin punch instead. These older Kitchen Aid mixers were built with very tight tolerances. Please be patient and take your time removing the pins. Good Luck……. Jim

Used the diagram on the website and a video
Totally worked!

Order the worm gear part number PS11748374.
Watch this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeCiivPt7hk

I would recommend two people if possible.

Watched a YouTube video to disassemble,from there went smoothly. One small piece of advice,take pictures with your smart phone during the process. Makes remembering easier.

Rather than duplicate previous repair works, I recommend going to this user site and follow their instructions: http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer1.htm. Once you have done this repair, taking the unit apart is easier to perform this tasks. Order replacement Grease "Benalene 930-2" in the 3.3 oz container and be sure to use the full container to lather all around all the gear components so grease will be available to units for years to come due to heat build up under load. Too, the 3.5 oz container is made for one unit repair job and is available through Amazon. This grease is available on larger quantities if needed / desired. I did order both, a Worm Gear and the Worm Gear and Bracket as I wasn't sure of my mechanical ability to make this repair until I got inside the unit but the worm gear is easily replaced once you clean out all the old grease. The worm gear is a neoprene type gear with all other gears being metal. I assume neoprene is used as sacrificial to save other gears from breaking under loads and years of use.

Replaced the speed control plate and phase control board and works well. Pay attention to speed control board spring and adjustment lever when reassembling.