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Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.
the old gaskt was not linge dup well, the door was not closing well
pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all. An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
Switch to the left front burner not working right.
Repair has not been made yet still waiting for the part. The part is on order and was told it would be shipped in 1/3 business days. Still waiting for the part to come from China. This is the problem with parts being made out side the U. S. A.
Oven temperature was WAY off, sometimes 50 degrees.
Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.
The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.
I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.
I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.
The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.
It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole. TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.
Shut beaker off Unhooked wires on element back of stove Removed all racks Unscrewed lower plate cover Removed element Inserted new element Rebooked wires to element Reinstalled cover plate Turned breaker back on Turned range on and let heat up Turned it off Reinstalled racks
dropped a crock pot glass lid onto the glass cooktop cracking the glass
I slid the range out only a couple of inches so I didn't have to detach the downdraft blower connection. Undoing the four #2 square head screws was easy from the under the control panel as well as the three pairs of screws holding the front of the glass cooktop frame. Undoing the two in the rear (one on each side) was a bit of a challenge in that they were in upside down and difficult to see without a mirror. It was easy to drop the screws as they fell never to be seen again. After they were removed the top was easily removed. Reinstalling the back two screws was the most difficult of the entire procedure. I replaced the #2 square head bits with the same size hex head screws. Using a nut driver made the whole process much easier. By the way, the distance between the holes in the rear and the replacement top is 1/8" difference that made lining up the holes a frustrating experience. I ended up using a rattail file to hog out the opening to enlarge the holes. That made the lineup much much more easy.
Foolishly melted a plastic cutting board at a high temperature while baking bread which dripped over two two racks and puddled on the bottom pan.
The repair was very easy, though expensive. Just slid in the racks and installed new bottom with only two screws to remove and replace after setting the bottom pan in place..
![](https://partselectcom-gtcdcddbene3cpes.z01.azurefd.net/12348164-1-S-Whirlpool-W11171119-6-amp-quot-Surface-Element-1200-W.jpg "6" Surface Element, 1200 W – Part Number: W11171119")
