KERI201PBL4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Unplugged unit from wall.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

Open door 1/4 an slide the little latches on each hinge toward you. This will lock them in place. Close the door a little and lift it up. The door will slide out. Lay it face down on a table and undo all the screws. Do not remove the glass, frame etc. Slide old hinge out and new one in being careful not to slide the glass and frame out of alignment. It is a pain to get it all back together if you take every part out. Just do the hinges. Screw it back together. Reverse the door removal process by lowering the hinges into the oven receiver from a 75% closed position. Once in place, open the oven about halfway and slide the locks forward. This will allow the door to close completely. Note: Three hinges came with my set. Not sure what the third odd one is for.

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I pulled the range away from the wall enough to reach the back. There is a small access panel on the back of the control panel at the top of the range. It removes with 3 phillips head screws. Once removed, the back of the switch is accessible. Simply pinch the 2 snaps on the side of the switch and push it out through the front of the panel. Remove the 3 wires from the failed switch and install them on the new switch. It isn't obvious which way the switch installs and I'm not sure it matters. But there is stamped writing on the switch that will help orient it. Then simply push the switch back in place until the snaps catch and install the access panel.

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

Unplugged appliance, removed the 2 screws that mount element. Unhooked the electric wires,with pliers.
Connected, the wires to new element replaced the 2 screws. And was done in about 9 minutes.

Unplug the stove from outlet so no power going to appliance. Had to use wd on screws to help loosen
Little bit of effort to loosen. Took new element from package. Replaced screws just tight donot over tighten. Plug stove into outlet turned on. Did a automatic clean. Oven clean and baked cake later I am back in business and 63 years. Was quote 240.00 to from a local repair person. When using wd make sure you wipe any drip from before turning on oven.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone