KDTM404EWH3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered the part from this website and easily replaced it.

1) Pull out dishwasher from under counter. 2) Disconnect spring located at the bottom on each side of dishwasher. 3) Using socket remove pulley wheels from each side at bottom. 4) Install new pulleys on each side. 5) Wind pulley cord around both wheels and attach to one end of the spring on each side. 6) Using pliers extend other spring end to lower frame of dishwasher on each side. 7) Open and close dishwasher door to test. 8) Replacement complete

Removed the old rack clips from the top rack, freeing the rack and removed the bracket holding the adjustable bracket

Replaced the rack bracket and hung the rack back onto the rails

Replaced door latch

Pulled out dishwasher, removed 4 bolts holding the track to the dishwasher, replaced track and installed the 4 bolts. Pushed back the dishwasher and works like new. The new tracks are riveted instead of spot weld and will last longer.

Very easy. I removed the two screws on the base plate, then the two screws that attach the washer to the cabinet, and pulled the washer out of its slot. I installed the broken side and closely checked the other side and felt it didn't need repairing. I put it back together and the door works very well.

Thanks,
Ted K.

It was very easy.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

I looked at the position of the remaining Tine Pivot, since there are four on this dishwasher upper rack, and positioned the replacement pivot and pressed it into place. It was a snap (excuse the pun!). NOTE: My dishwasher's Model Number was not in the list provided herein. I had to search a couple of models to find the Upper Rack that looked like ours and to find the Tine Pivot replacement part that looked like ours.That process took longer than the "repair".

Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!

Watch video and followed instructions. Very easy!

easy the sensor was on the right side, and easy to get to, I turn off the power, turned off the water, and pulled it out, the first thing I saw was the yellow wires and plug. took about 5 minutes, to replace it.

In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.

This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

Per suggestions from other reviews, I looked for You Tube videos for replacing this part. The video I used was completely necessary, but moved way too fast, so required lots of stopping, rewinding and starting again. But I managed to get the old rack adjuster removed and the new one installed without too much trouble.
Then I tried installing it in the pull-out rail. The front connector on the new adjuster would not fit into the appropriate slot. Initially I thought maybe the part was defective, but determined that the dimensions were as accurate as my eye and tape measure could evaluate. Finally, I settled on the expedient of filing away at least 1/16" from one edge of the slot so that the connector would drop into place.
Not sure why this discrepancy existed but the problem appears to be resolved.