KBRS22KVSS4 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Hook just clips right into the channel in seconds.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

SIMPLY REPLACED THEM

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I removed the crisper pans, installed the new rail and then installed the new bins. Very easily done--I was finished in 10 minutes

The new door just popped into place. Took seconds to complete. Fast delivery too.

Watched the video that was attached with part invoice. Video made it easy to perform since I’ve never done this task before.

Just take the crisper out and just put it in the hall access

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

with the freezer working I knew the compressor was working. I confirmed that the actuator door in the refrigerator was working but no air was blowing out. The hardest part was removing all the freezer drawer components and the ice maker so I could remove the panel in the back covering the evaporator motor. A quick resistance check of the motor confirmed no continuity in the motor. Take your time so that you dont break any of the snap in pieces. The motor I received did not look like the one I was replacing, but in fit in place and bolted right in. They provided an adapter wire to connect the wiring. All in all it was a fairly easy job. The video I followed was very helpful.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.