JVM3160RFSS - Instructions

Ok. Surprised I was sent a damaged part. Box was intact but the aluminum frame was bent. Looks like I received a factory reject. I was able to make it fit

Loosened screw on top of filter
Removed and replaced filter

I received replacement and followed youtube instructions to replace door latch mechanism. Very simple and only required a screw driver. works fine. Total time: less than 20 minutes. Wife and I are happy as I did not have to buy new a Microwave.

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

Originally called it "grease filter" until I found very small print "air filter" on damaged original. Part #PS3527528

Slipped into place with ease -- right bottom of microwave

Change gasket

Used the puddy knife to open up the door and then used a screw driver to change the old part with the new one. That easy

Removed the phillips screws from the base.

Using a # 10 secure driver, remove the motor. (I recommend obtaining a secure star driver set to be sure you have the right size)

Replace the spacer, which is a separate part from the motor.

Reinstall the spacer and motor.

Reinstall the bottom panel.

Enjoy!

Used fingers to pull damaged cover away from microwave interior body. Used fingers to snap replacement cover into open slots.

Cover snap right into special slots.

I looked up my problem on the internet and found a very helpful video. Microwave on video was different brand but the internals and methods were very much the same. The video made it simple and easy to fix. Found the replacement switch on the LG parts site and ordered. Two different switch types. One with red switch, the other green. Part was $7.28. Saved a bundle in service costs. Here is the repair video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=_AglBJoHgDs

Open main door at the top is small door open take out old filter and replace newone

tested cap. with ohm meter which showed a short. A new HV cap., a fuse and it is working fine again.

I took the microwave off the wall and unplugged it, then removed the covering. Then I plugged it back in and took voltage readings at the cord terminal lugs. Then I tested the voltage after the fuse and at every point , following the wire. When I got to the upper heat sensor, which is mounted above the oven cavity, I found that the voltage readings stopped. Also, the wiring sleeve was burnt. I removed the part, then ordered it on line. After re-assembly, it worked. Nice.

Checked all sensors with a multi-meter, found the thermostat to be the problem, no continuity.

I opened it up, found there is sparks on the diode when cooking, I replaced the diode first, still no heat, I found all the switches and thermal stats were normal, there is 120V AC input to the transformer, so I tried to make a good guess and bought a Magnetron from Partselect, after I installed the new Magnetron, there is heat and the microwave is working.