JTP86CF2CC General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

Remove 2 nuts attaching element to oven. Pull element out 1" to 2" exposing electrical leads. Pull leads off old element. Replace with new. Toughest part is seeing the elements in a dark oven. Have a light handy.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

The repair was very simple. In fact the biggest challenge was finding the correct socket set.

it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering

Lifted up the glass plate. Put in the new roller guide. Set the glass plate back in place. Repair done in about 30 seconds! Thanks for prompt service in sending the new part. My only regret is that the part was expensive, and I have already replaced it once before. The new part is still plastic so will probably need to be replaced again.

Identified part with Part Select, placed order. Opened the power breaker for the oven. Removed oven door (slides off) to improve access, removed burnt element (2 screw and 2 electrical blade terminals). Installed the new element and tested. Reattached oven door.

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

bought a fuse but that didn't solve the problem. Guess I need a new microwave

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

I shut off power to the microwave, discharged the Hi-voltage capaciator and disconnected the wires to it, then removed the screw and bracket that held the capaciator in place. After removing and replacing the capaciator, reattaching wires and mounting bracket, and replacing the 15amp fuse, the microwave woked fine.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

nothing to it.